Author: Ruchi Singla

The Goldsmiths’ Centre has announced the return of Shine, its annual showcase for emerging jewellery and silversmithing talent in the UK. Shine 2025 will run from 17 September to 22 December 2025, beginning with a one-night event at the Centre’s exhibition space in Farringdon, London. Exhibitors and Selection Process Eleven early-career designer-makers have been selected through an open call to exhibit and sell their work both in person and online. The 2025 group includes jewellers Heather Blake, Edwin Charmain (Pusaka), Carol Cole (Carol Cole Jewellery), Shirani Fernando (Shirani Jewellery), Misha McLean, Niamh Wright (Nif Jewels), Marina Skia, Junru Erin, Wenyin…

The Jewelers’ Security Alliance (JSA) has issued updated recommendations for jewellery retailers in response to ongoing incidents of smash-and-grab robberies. The non-profit organisation, which has provided crime prevention support to the jewellery industry since 1883, has detailed several measures intended to reduce losses and support safety. Focus on Personal Safety During Incidents The JSA advises against resisting during a smash-and-grab robbery, as offenders may be armed with hammers, knives, or firearms. These incidents tend to occur rapidly, and attempting to intervene may increase the risk of injury. Physical Deterrents and Alarm Systems The JSA recommends installing burglary-resistant, laminated glass in…

The Natural Diamond Council (NDC), in collaboration with Choron Group and the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF), has released a new industry report focused on fancy colour diamonds. The report examines the formation, market dynamics, rarity, and historical significance of these diamonds, providing an informational resource for jewellers, collectors, auction houses, and retailers. Market Context and Report Purpose The release follows a series of notable sales and media coverage involving fancy colour diamonds. In June 2025, the Marie-Thérèse Pink diamond achieved nearly $14 million at Christie’s New York, while a 5.02-carat fancy pink diamond ring at Sotheby’s was estimated between…

Mappin & Webb is marking its 250th anniversary in 2025 through a programme of product launches and collaborations, reflecting its long-standing role in British jewellery, goldsmithing and silversmithing. Established in 1775 by Jonathan Mappin in Sheffield, the brand has operated under the Watches of Switzerland Group since 1998 and continues to hold Royal Warrants. New Collections and Collaborations To commemorate the milestone, Mappin & Webb has introduced collections informed by its archive, including one featuring floral motifs and 25 diamonds in each piece, representing the brand’s 250-year history. A separate collection has been developed in 18ct yellow gold, sourced from…

The Goldsmiths’ Centre has partnered with the Black British Initiative (BBI) to fund ten places for Black jewellers and silversmiths on the MBA30 programme. The initiative aims to support their professional development and business skills. Programme structure and content MBA30 is a four-week executive education course, first launched with SOAS University of London in 2023 and accredited by SOAS in 2024. It is designed to provide underserved Black entrepreneurs with practical tools and knowledge to grow their businesses. Delivered in a hybrid format, the programme includes three in-person days on campus and six half-day online sessions. Topics covered include leadership,…

Pandora has partnered with Amazon to take action against a network involved in the sale of counterfeit jewellery, resulting in a criminal prosecution in China. The collaboration followed a multi-year investigation by Pandora’s Intellectual Property and Brand Protection team, supported by Amazon’s Counterfeit Crimes Unit. Chinese law enforcement, acting on the information gathered, conducted a raid leading to the seizure of counterfeit Pandora items. Investigation and Legal Proceedings The inquiry was launched in 2020 after customs authorities intercepted shipments suspected of containing counterfeit goods. Pandora and Amazon linked the activity to two sellers based in China operating at scale across…

London Trading Standards has received the British Hallmarking Council’s Touchstone Award 2025 in recognition of its enforcement and educational work through Operation Stamping It Out, a programme aimed at improving compliance with the Hallmarking Act 1973. The operation, launched in 2023, is funded by the London Assay Office and delivered by WRi Group. Targeted Enforcement Across London Operation Stamping It Out brings together Trading Standards teams from eight London boroughs and the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea. The initiative combines retailer education, intelligence-led inspections, and enforcement measures to uphold hallmarking requirements. Since its inception, the programme has generated 132…

Russia remained the leading country for rough diamond production by value in 2024, holding its position for a second consecutive year. According to data released by the Kimberley Process, the Russian Federation produced 37.3 million carats of rough diamonds, valued at $3.34 billion, despite continued international sanctions and a subdued global market. Production Trends and Market Conditions Global rough diamond production increased by 6% in volume to 118 million carats. However, the total value declined by 10% year-on-year to $11.48 billion, reflecting weaker consumer demand and lower average prices across key producing countries. Russia’s output matched the previous year’s volume…

Online diamond retailer 77 Diamonds will open a new appointment-only showroom in Paris on 2 July in Place Vendôme, the luxury jewellery hub. Expansion Strategy The Paris showroom forms part of 77 Diamonds’ wider expansion across Europe and the Middle East. The company, which primarily operates online, will use the new space to offer private consultations and in-person services by appointment. Statement from 77 Diamonds Tobias Kormind, Co-founder and Managing Director of 77 Diamonds, commented on the launch: “We are thrilled to be opening our doors in Place Vendôme in Paris, arguably the world’s most famous jewellery address. “Bringing an…

Governments of major diamond-producing countries and industry leaders have signed the Luanda Accord, committing to allocate 1% of annual revenues from rough diamond sales to support the marketing of natural diamonds through the Natural Diamond Council (NDC). Backing for Natural Diamond Promotion The agreement was signed during a Ministerial Round Table in Luanda, Angola, where participating countries and companies expressed a unified approach to enhancing global consumer awareness of natural diamonds. This initiative aims to address a decline in category marketing investment and respond to the impact of synthetic alternatives on consumer perceptions. Angola’s Minister of Mineral Resources, Oil and…

HRD Antwerp, the diamond grading laboratory subsidiary of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), has announced it will cease issuing quality certificates for loose laboratory-grown diamonds from 2026. The decision is part of an effort to reinforce the distinction between natural and synthetic diamonds. Scope of the Change The laboratory will stop grading loose lab-grown diamonds intended for commercial sale, but will continue to certify jewellery that contains synthetic diamonds. HRD will also continue to analyse synthetic diamonds for research and technical purposes, but not for grading or commercial use. Ellen Joncheere, CEO of HRD Antwerp, stated: “As of 2026,…

Rio Tinto has recovered a 0.45-carat purple diamond at its Diavik mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories, marking the first discovery of a purple stone of this size at the site since mining commenced in 2003. Unusual Find at a Predominantly White Diamond Deposit Diavik, Rio Tinto’s last operational diamond mine following the closure of the Argyle mine in Australia, has traditionally yielded primarily white diamonds, with yellow diamonds accounting for less than one per cent of production. The recent recovery of the purple diamond is therefore a significant geological outlier. In a public statement, Rio Tinto said: “We recently had…

Botswana, Angola and Qatar have expressed their intent to join the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), as announced during the organisation’s 2025 Presidents’ Meeting held in New York. The high-level gathering, hosted in collaboration with the Diamond Dealers Club of New York, brought together global stakeholders for discussions focused on the future of the natural diamond sector. WFDB Emphasises Unified Global Voice The event commenced with WFDB President Yoram Dvash underscoring the organisation’s mission to secure the future of the natural diamond industry through ethical leadership, transparency, and unity. “We are not just preserving the diamond industry — we…

De Beers Group has appointed Emmanuelle Nodale as brand CEO of De Beers London, effective immediately, as the business enters a phase of strategic change and planned international expansion. Leadership Role Tied to Retail Strategy Nodale will lead the brand as it prepares to open a flagship boutique on Rue de la Paix in Paris later this year. The store will be the first to present De Beers London’s new retail concept, intended to reflect the company’s design direction and its heritage in natural diamonds. Her appointment follows the recent rebrand from De Beers Jewellers to De Beers London. This…

The 36th annual Valuers’ Conference, organised by the Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV) with support from the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ), took place on 7–8 June in Birmingham. The event included presentations and training sessions attended by valuers, students and members of the jewellery trade. Technical presentations and industry insights Saturday’s programme included talks by experts from the UK and overseas, covering current issues in gemmology, auction trends and valuation practice. Kate Flitcroft discussed her experience at Bonhams and how shifts in the auction market affect jewellery valuation. Dr Aaron Palke presented the latest research from the Gemological Institute…

The Natural Diamond Council (NDC) has published a report examining key developments in the laboratory-grown diamond sector focusing on trends in production, pricing, sustainability claims, and product disclosure, drawing on research from independent analysts Edahn Golan and Paul Zimnisky. Production and Environmental Profile The report states that more than 70% of laboratory-grown diamonds are mass-produced in factories in China and India, where coal remains a primary energy source. The production processes—High-Pressure, High-Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD)—require sustained high temperatures of around 1,093°C and substantial volumes of water for cooling. Pricing Trends and Margins The report outlines a sharp…

On 12 June, the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) began its “We Protect a Legacy” campaign with a vending machine activation at a Belgian shopping mall, providing members of the public with the opportunity to purchase a lab‑grown diamond for €5, aiming to illustrate the price difference between synthetic and natural diamonds. AWDC president Isidore Morsel said: “With this campaign, we draw a clear line and inform the public in a transparent and accurate way. Only a well‑informed consumer can make conscious choices and avoid being misled.” Market Pricing and Consumer Clarity Morsel also noted that synthetic diamond prices have…

De Beers Group has introduced two new downstream initiatives at the JCK Las Vegas Show, aimed at supporting demand for natural diamonds and strengthening transparency through traceability and digital tools. Ombré Desert Diamonds Marketing Concept De Beers has introduced its first new ‘beacon’ concept in over a decade, titled Ombré Desert Diamonds. The beacon is a category marketing initiative aimed at promoting natural diamond jewellery through coordinated design themes. The Ombré Desert Diamonds concept is inspired by desert landscapes in diamond-producing areas, with designs incorporating colour gradations such as whites, champagnes and ambers. Multi-stone designs were previewed at the show,…

Registration is now open for the 2025 CIBJO Congress, which will take place in Paris from Monday 27 October to Wednesday 29 October 2025. The congress will coincide with the start of CIBJO’s centenary year. The organisation was founded in Paris in 1926 as a pan-European association and now operates as an international industry standards body for jewellery, gemstones and precious metals. Host and Programme This year’s event will be hosted by the Union Française de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie, des Pierres & des Perles (UFBJOP), the representative body for the French jewellery, goldsmithing, gemstone and pearl sectors. A provisional…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will introduce a new descriptive system for laboratory-grown diamonds later this year, replacing the traditional colour and clarity grading scales originally developed for natural diamonds. Laboratory-grown diamonds will still be accepted for evaluation and identification under the revised system. The new framework will categorise qualifying laboratory-grown diamonds as either ‘premium’ or ‘standard’, based on a combination of characteristics including colour, clarity and finish. Diamonds that do not meet the minimum threshold will not receive a classification. Until the new system is in place, current services for laboratory-grown diamond reports will remain available. Reflecting Narrow…

President Duma Boko has announced plans to change how Botswana manages its mineral sector, stating that all diamonds mined in the country must be cut and polished locally. The policy is part of a government effort to expand local processing of minerals, including diamonds, copper, and nickel, before export. Shift to Domestic Diamond Manufacturing Speaking at a public meeting in Ramotswa, President Boko said: “No diamond will leave this country raw — all will be cut and polished here.” He added, “We are moving to a point where no mineral will leave this country without being processed. We will bring…

Olympia Auctions has reported its largest Jewellery and Watches sale to date, with results reflecting sustained international interest in antique and period jewellery. Top lots included early 20th-century, 19th-century, and 18th-century pieces, acquired by trade and private buyers across the UK, Europe, Asia, and North America. This was Olympia’s second jewellery auction of the year, with additional sales scheduled for September and November. Demand for Period Jewellery Evident in Top Results The highest result of the sale was achieved by a 1920s natural pearl and diamond necklace by Cartier. Comprising 87 graduated natural pearls, ranging from 8.6mm to 3.8mm, and…

The National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) hosted its annual Retail Congress on Tuesday, 3rd June, at Drayton Manor Resort. The one-day event brought together independent jewellery retailers and invited guests to discuss business strategies and challenges identified through the JET Business Network (JBN), the NAJ’s peer-to-peer support group for retail jewellers. This year’s theme, “Lessons from the Best in Class”, examined operational strategies from business owners within and outside the jewellery industry. Topics included team development, marketing, ethical sourcing, and managing uncertainty. Speaker Sessions What it Takes to be Voted the Best in Town Jaysal Pattni, Director at Minar Jewellers,…

Students from the British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) developed wearable car key designs as part of a collaboration with Birmingham-based Vaughtons Automotive.  The competition asked second-year BA (Hons) students to create functional jewellery pieces inspired by Ferrari. Industry Collaboration with Vaughtons Nick Hobbis, Managing Director at Vaughtons, visited BAJ’s Camden Town campus on 4 April to judge the submissions and announce the winners. “I was honoured to be invited to judge the design challenge for the BA (Hons) second-year students. There is clearly a lot of talent coming through and I look forward to seeing them in the industry one…

Gemological Science International (GSI) has opened a new laboratory in Bangkok, Thailand—its 14th globally. The facility is located in the city’s gem and jewellery district, a key centre for international coloured gemstone trading. The laboratory will serve both local and international clients and offers testing and certification services for coloured gemstones, natural and lab-grown diamonds, pearls, and finished jewellery. Range of Services The Bangkok facility provides comprehensive testing, analysis, and certification services across a wide array of product categories, including coloured gemstones, natural and lab-grown diamonds, finished jewellery, and pearls. The lab also specialises in the screening and detection of…

Jay McGinty, 37, has been sentenced to six years in prison for attempting to steal jewellery worth approximately £190,000 from a display at Claridge’s Hotel in Mayfair, London. He pleaded guilty to aggravated burglary following an incident involving smoke grenades and a sledgehammer in March this year. Incident Overview McGinty arrived at the hotel’s Davies Street side entrance as a passenger on a Vespa scooter, wearing a balaclava under his crash helmet. He entered the building carrying smoke grenades and a sledgehammer. He released the grenades in the hallway, producing thick smoke, before breaking a display case containing jewellery with…

During a recent visit to Canada, Queen Camilla wore the Canadian Maple Leaf brooch, a piece historically associated with royal visits to Canada. The brooch, crafted in platinum and diamonds, has long been used to reflect the monarchy’s relationship with the Commonwealth nation and featured prominently during the tour in Ottawa alongside King Charles III. A Brooch with Royal Provenance The Canadian Maple Leaf brooch was originally commissioned by King George VI in 1939 for Queen Elizabeth (later the Queen Mother) ahead of their royal tour to Canada. Created by Asprey, the piece is designed in the shape of a…

The forthcoming India–UK Free Trade Agreement (FTA) is expected to remove nearly all tariffs on Indian jewellery exports to the UK. According to the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), the agreement could see exports of Indian jewellery to the UK increase from approximately £297 million to £742 million, with total gem and jewellery exports reaching £1.85 billion within two years of implementation. Product Categories and Market Focus Gold and diamond jewellery are expected to remain the primary categories of interest for the UK market. “Gold and diamond-studded jewellery are expected to gain more traction, driven by strong consumer…

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) will hold its annual Presidents’ Meeting in New York from 10–11 June. The event will feature participation from government representatives and senior figures across the diamond supply chain to discuss current issues affecting the natural diamond sector. Hosted by the Diamond Dealers Club of New York and led by President Elliot Krisched, the meeting is centred on the theme “Tariffs and Supporting Natural Diamonds”. It will include a series of expert panels and discussions focused on current challenges and policy considerations within the industry. Government Representation Speakers will include Botswana President Duma Boko…

Susan Jacques, President and CEO of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), has received the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) Lifetime Achievement Award. The award was presented during a gala dinner at the conclusion of the ICA Congress held in Brasília, Brazil, from 19–22 May 2025. The award acknowledges Jacques’ long-standing service and leadership within the gem and jewellery industry. ICA President Damien Cody said: “Susan has contributed to our industry in many roles, always with exceptional dedication and professionalism.” ICA CEO Doug Hucker said: “Susan is a prime example of generational leadership excellence. While she may step away from…