Author: Ruchi Singla

The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) has launched a new vodcast series, CMJ Presents…, designed to provide industry insights, data, and expert analysis for the jewellery and watch trade. The series is hosted on CMJ’s YouTube channel and aims to support independent jewellers by sharing best practices, trend analysis, and member perspectives.Key Themes and Initial EpisodesEach episode of CMJ Presents… focuses on different aspects of the industry, including market trends, business strategies, and insights from CMJ members. The first two episodes are now available online.The debut episode, CMJ Presents… Christmas Retail Insights, features CMJ’s director of membership development, Patrick Turner,…

The International Gemological Institute (IGI) USA has introduced GemPass, a new bundled certification package for coloured gemstones, at the AGTA GemFair, GJX, and Out of the Jewel Box (OJB Experience) trade shows in Tucson, Arizona. The initiative is designed to offer wholesalers a structured way to obtain gemstone reports in bulk at a reduced cost.Flexible Bundles for Coloured Gem CertificationGemPass allows clients to purchase 50 or 100 coloured gemstone reports at a set price per report, regardless of the stone’s carat weight or type. The pricing model provides savings compared to individual report purchases, and bundles remain valid for 12 months…

India has become the world’s largest consumer of gold jewellery, surpassing China with total consumption of 563.4 tonnes in 2024. In comparison, China recorded 511.4 tonnes during the same period.According to the World Gold Council (WGC), India’s total gold demand, including both jewellery and investment purchases, rose by 5% year-on-year to 802.8 tonnes in 2024, up from 761 tonnes in 2023. The WGC projects that gold consumption in India for 2025 will range between 700 and 800 tonnes.Gold Demand and Price TrendsThe total value of gold demand in India increased by 31% in 2024, reaching ₹5,15,390 crore, compared to ₹3,92,000…

A court has heard claims that the theft of £1.38 million worth of watches from London retailer 247 Kettles was staged, with all participants allegedly aware of the plan. Two men, Junior Kunu, 30, and Mannix Pedro, 37, deny charges of conspiracy to commit robbery in connection with the incident on 25 May 2024. The store manager, Oliver White, died by suicide the following day.Defendant Claims Robbery Was an Insurance ScamAt Woolwich Crown Court, Kunu testified that he was offered £5,000 to take part in what he believed was a staged robbery. He said he was informed by an associate, Kyle…

Mastercard will remove the 16-digit card number from credit and debit cards by 2030, replacing it with tokenisation and biometric authentication to improve payment security.Tokenisation replaces a card number with a unique digital identifier stored on a user’s device, reducing the risk of sensitive data being exposed during transactions. Biometric authentication, such as fingerprint or facial recognition, will also be used to verify transactions.Addressing Payment FraudThe decision to eliminate card numbers follows rising fraud levels globally. Card-not-present fraud, where stolen card details are used for unauthorised online or phone transactions, accounts for a significant proportion of payment fraud. Cybercriminals frequently…

The British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) Birmingham held its annual Graduate Exhibition and Awards Evening on 29 January at the Birmingham Assay Office. The event featured work from graduates of the Level 3 Jewellery Design and Manufacturing Diploma and the Jewellery Apprenticeship courses, with pieces including Mandala Domed Pendants, Stacking Rings, and Laser-Cut Acrylic projects.Recognising Student AchievementMore than 70 attendees, including students, alumni, and industry professionals, gathered to view the graduates’ work and celebrate their accomplishments. BAJ alumna Tabitha Sullivan, founder of Tabi DSGN, addressed the audience, sharing insights into her career since graduating. She reflected on the challenges and…

The Indian government has removed import duties on seeds used in lab-grown diamond production and lowered tariffs on certain precious metals in a move intended to support the domestic gem and jewellery industry.Impact on Lab-Grown Diamond ManufacturingImporters were previously required to pay customs duties on seeds used to create rough synthetic diamonds. The removal of this requirement will remain in effect until March 2026, a move expected to benefit India’s lab-grown diamond sector.Vipul Shah, chairman of the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), commented on the decision, stating, “The removal of this condition until March 2026 will provide a…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has completed its 100th field gemmology expedition with the landmark trip taking GIA researchers to Kenya and Tanzania, where they collected tsavorite, spinel, and sapphire rough. The field gemmology programme contributes to GIA’s growing database on the chemical, geological, and gemmological properties of coloured stones.Expanding GIA’s Coloured Stone DatabaseDuring the expedition, GIA field gemmologists collected over 15 kilograms of gem rough, including more than 10,000 carats of individual sapphires from Garba Tula, Kenya. Each sample’s origin was verified and recorded.“Our extensive field gemmology programme is the foundation of our coloured stone research and identification and…

Swiss watch exports fell by 2.8% in 2024, with total shipments amounting to CHF 25.99 billion, primarily due to weaker demand in China and Hong Kong.According to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, the downturn worsened in December, when exports dropped by 5% year-on-year to CHF 2.03 billionThe four largest markets for Swiss watches—the United States, Hong Kong, China, and Japan— all recorded lower demand in December. Exports to China saw the sharpest decline, falling 19% to CHF 151.2 million, while shipments to Hong Kong dropped 6% to CHF 159.1 million. The US, the top export destination, saw a…

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that Executive Director Melanie Grant is stepping down after two years in the role. John Hall, who has been involved with the organisation since its inception in 2005, will serve as interim executive director while a search for Grant’s successor is conducted. Grant will remain temporarily as a consultant to assist with the transition.Leadership Transition at RJCGrant took over as executive director in January 2023, following a ten-month period without a permanent leader after the resignation of Iris Van der Veken. During her tenure, RJC membership grew from just under 1,700 to 2,000.Hall, a…

The United States will require diamond importers to declare the country of mining origin for all shipments entering the country, according to a notice from US Customs and Border Protection (CBP). This measure, intended to strengthen enforcement of sanctions on Russian goods, will take effect in April 2025.CBP outlined the requirement in a Trade User Information Notice dated January 14, 2025, which was distributed on January 23. The rule builds on existing restrictions that prohibit the import of Russian nonindustrial diamonds weighing 0.50 carats or more, in effect since September 1, 2024.Details of the New Import Declaration RuleUnder the new…

De Beers Group and the Government of Botswana have concluded negotiations on a new 10-year sales agreement for rough diamonds from Debswana, their 50:50 joint venture. The deal, which also includes an extension of Debswana’s mining licences, follows a lengthy negotiation process that began in 2019 and saw multiple extensions of the previous agreement.Key Terms of the AgreementUnder the new agreement, the Botswana government’s state-owned diamond trader, Okavango Diamond Company (ODC), will initially receive 30% of Debswana’s rough diamond production. This share will gradually increase to 50% by the end of the contract in 2035.Debswana, which operates Botswana’s major diamond mines—Jwaneng,…

The prices of fancy-colour diamonds fell by 2.2% in 2024, reflecting a slowdown in the luxury sector and broader economic challenges, according to the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF). Yellow Diamonds See the Largest Price DropYellow fancy-colour diamonds saw the steepest decline, with prices dropping by 5.6% over the year. This category also accounted for all of the top five price decreases in the fourth quarter, with an overall quarterly drop of 2.2%.Among yellow diamonds, 2-carat fancy-intense stones saw the biggest decline, down 3.6% in the final quarter. Other decreases included a 3% drop in 3-carat fancy-vivid-yellow diamonds and a 2.6%…

Danish fine jewellery brand Elhanati has announced a partnership with Botswanamark, a natural diamond provenance programme, for its latest collection, Octopus Diamond Temple. The collection, which includes three handcrafted designs in 18ct yellow gold, reflects the brand’s focus on ethical sourcing and supply chain transparency.Octopus Diamond Temple CollectionThe collection includes three handcrafted pieces designed by founder Orit Elhanati, featuring motifs inspired by an underwater theme. Each piece incorporates Botswanamark diamonds, ensuring traceability.Commitment to Ethical SourcingThe collaboration with Botswanamark aligns with Elhanati’s goal of ensuring that all diamonds used in its creations are responsibly sourced. Botswanamark offers traceability for natural diamonds, enabling…

Spring Fair, the UK’s largest retail trade event, is running a Golden Ticket competition for its 2025 edition. Taking place from February 2 to February 5 at NEC Birmingham, the show will bring together home, gift, and fashion retailers and suppliers.With the event approaching, visitors who pre-register can enter a draw to win one of five Golden Ticket VIP packages, each worth £750.Golden Ticket Package DetailsThe Golden Ticket package includes:The competition closes on Thursday, January 30 at 11:59 pm.Spring Fair 2025 OverviewSpring Fair hosts over 1,200 exhibitors across 12 buying destinations, presenting over one million products. The event provides retailers…

Jemora Gemhouse, a new auction house specialising in rare and high-value polished coloured gemstones, has been unveiled in Dubai. The platform is led by Dev Shetty, whose previous experience includes the sale of the 55.22-carat “Estrela de Fura Ruby” for $35 million, as well as leadership roles at Gemfields and Fura Gems. Upcoming AuctionThe inaugural auction is scheduled for 17–19 March 2025 at the Dubai Diamond Exchange (DDE), part of the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC). The Dubai Diamond Exchange, which supports over 1,350 companies, has hosted significant gemstone tenders in recent years.The event will focus on sapphires from key origins, including Kashmir,…

The London Diamond Bourse (LDB) recently welcomed industry professionals, GIA students, and members for a presentation by Rosamond Clayton, a leading expert in jewellery valuation, to focus on the career path of becoming a Registered Valuer through the National Association of Jewellers’ (NAJ) Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV).Rosamond Clayton’s presentation covered critical aspects of the profession, including the NAJ IRV Code of Conduct, professional codes of practice, and the steps required to join the NAJ IRV. She emphasised the role of these standards in ensuring legal compliance and supporting profitability. Aspiring valuers gained insights into the diverse skills required, from…

The British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) remains unaffected by the administration of its parent company, Free To Learn (F2L). While F2L has ceased operations following the termination of its government-funded adult education contracts, BAJ continues to deliver its apprenticeships, diplomas, and degree programmes in jewellery design and manufacturing.The Background to F2L’s AdministrationFree To Learn was established in 2010 and grew rapidly, securing more than £20 million in public funding between 2019 and 2023 to deliver Adult Education Budget (AEB) courses. The organisation employed over 100 staff and worked on both direct contracts and subcontracted arrangements.Difficulties arose after an Ofsted inspection found…

The Rical Group, a Smethwick-based manufacturing business with nearly 200 years of history, has entered administration, placing 185 jobs at risk. The company operates across several industries, including jewellery, automotive, defence, construction, and catering, with its subsidiaries Priory Products and H.A. Light Findings serving as key suppliers to the jewellery sector. Evelyn Partners has been appointed as administrators for the group.A Legacy in ManufacturingFounded in 1824 by William Mitchell, the Rical Group began as a presswork company producing metal pen nibs. Over time, it expanded its operations to provide fine blanking, metal pressings, and component fabrication for a range of industries.Its…

Pandora has been named one of the 100 most sustainable companies in the world by Corporate Knights at the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland. The annual Global 100 ranking evaluates companies with over USD 1 billion in revenue based on 25 performance indicators across sustainability, resource management, and corporate governance.Pandora, ranked 48th overall and 2nd in the “Textiles, Apparel and Luxury Goods” category, was recognised for its sustainable business practices, including its use of recycled silver, gold, and lab-grown diamonds.Environmental and Sustainability HighlightsCorporate Knights noted Pandora’s environmental efforts, including reductions in CO2 emissions and its use of renewable energy. Over…

The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) has reported a 6.5% year-on-year increase in group sales during the “golden quarter” from September to December 2024, underscoring strong buyer confidence among its independent retail members ahead of the festive season.A survey conducted by CMJ among its retailer members revealed that 71% experienced higher sales over Christmas compared to the same period in 2023. Stock sell-through figures in early January 2025 further confirmed a robust Christmas trading period for members.Key Role of the CMJ Autumn Trade EventThe CMJ Autumn Trade Event was instrumental in the quarter’s performance, particularly through the introduction of the…

AG Group has officially opened its in-house Assay Office at its Hertfordshire headquarters, marking a significant milestone for the business. The facility, established in partnership with the Sheffield Assay Office, will allow the group to carry out hallmarking for fine jewellery, including wedding and engagement rings, at its headquarters.The inaugural event was attended by Ashley Carson, Assay Master and Chief Executive of the Sheffield Assay Office, along with other industry representatives.A Historic First HallmarkThe first piece hallmarked at the new facility was a triple-row diamond-set band, handcrafted by Brown & Newirth for Wendy Laing, owner of Laings Jewellers. Laings is an…

India’s polished diamond export sector showed some signs of stabilisation in December 2024, according to data from the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). Gross polished diamond exports for the month totalled $773 million, a year-on-year decline of 10.4 per cent compared to December 2023. However, this marked an improvement from November 2024, which saw a sharp 40 per cent year-on-year drop to $660 million.Export Performance TrendsDecember’s figures indicated a partial recovery following months of volatility in 2024. In October, the sector experienced a year-on-year increase of 11.3 per cent, with export sales exceeding $1.4 billion. This was followed…

Richemont, owner of brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati and Vhernier, achieved record sales in the third quarter of the financial year ending 31 December 2024. Total revenue increased by 10% year-on-year to €6.15 billion (£5.23 billion), with its jewellery division driving much of the growth. Jewellery sales rose 14% to €4.5 billion, accounting for 71% of Richemont’s total revenue.Regional Sales BreakdownWhile global performance was positive, regional trends varied. Sales in the Americas grew by 22% to €1.6 billion, supported by improved consumer confidence and luxury market performance. In Europe, revenues increased by 19% to €1.5 billion, partly driven…

The British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) and the London Contemporary Dance School (LCDS) partnered to host an exhibition on 9 December 2023 that combined jewellery design and contemporary dance. The event, held at BAJ’s higher education campus in Camden, showcased the results of a five-week collaboration between second-year BA (Hons) jewellery students and LCDS dance students.The jewellery students designed movable pieces inspired by the theme of ‘Connection’, which were brought to life through bespoke choreography performed by the dancers. The event, sponsored by Shandy Shack and Modern Love Gin, was attended by over 100 people, who witnessed the collaborative projects…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced that Susan Jacques will retire as president and CEO at the end of 2025. A global search for her successor is now underway, led by the executive search firm Korn Ferry.A Decade of LeadershipJacques has served as GIA’s president and CEO since January 2014, following six months as interim CEO. Her association with the organisation dates back to 1996, when she joined the GIA Board of Governors. She held the role of chair of the board from 2008 until she became CEO.Reflecting on her tenure, Jacques stated, “At GIA, I have been…

Diamond producers across Africa are reported to be supporting the adoption of the Authentia traceability platform, a technology-driven initiative designed to promote transparency and accountability in the diamond trade.The African Diamond Council (ADC), representing 18 member states, has called on G7 nations and the Kimberley Process to consider implementing the platform.Three Years in DevelopmentThe ADC has been working alongside Authentia’s developers over the past three-and-a-half years to integrate traceability into diamond trading. Authentia, introduced to miners 14 months ago, uses blockchain technology and tools such as certificates of origin, tracking systems, nano-tagging, and ownership titles to support transparency in the…

Informa Markets Jewellery has announced the return of the Sustainability Awards by Jewellery World Awards (JWA), a programme designed to spotlight sustainability leaders in the fine jewellery, gemstone, and related industries. Applications for the 2025 awards are open from 6 January to 7 April 2025, with submissions accepted through an online portal.The awards aim to highlight organisations across the jewellery industry that have achieved measurable progress in environmental, social, and governance (ESG) efforts, regardless of their size, focus, or location.“Previously known as the JNA Awards, JWA was launched by Informa Markets Jewellery in 2012 to celebrate pioneers, change-makers and exceptional business…

The Birmingham Assay Office has announced its upcoming initiative, Crafting Your Career in the Jewellery Industry, a careers day that will take place on Thursday, 27th March 2025, from 10:00am to 4:00pm. The event will include practical demonstrations, industry talks, and an overview of career opportunities in the jewellery, silversmithing, diamond, and gemstone sectors.Practical Skills on DisplayThis year’s event will place particular emphasis on practical demonstrations, offering attendees the chance to observe the craftsmanship and technical skills that define the jewellery industry. These sessions will provide attendees with opportunities to see the techniques involved in jewellery-making and learn more about the…

The Zambian government has reinstated a 15% export duty on emeralds, effective 1 January 2025, following a suspension that had been in place since 2020.The 15% export duty was initially introduced in 2019 but was suspended later that year after lobbying by the Zambian emerald sector. The suspension remained in place until its recent revocation. Gemfields stated that the duty was reintroduced without prior notice or consultation.Industry ImplicationsThe new export duty aligns with Zambia’s efforts to increase government revenue in 2025, with reports of similar measures in other sectors. This may influence the gemstone sector’s operating conditions and its appeal…