Author: Ruchi Singla

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has recently published “William Ruser: The Jeweler Who Charmed Hollywood”, exploring the career of William Ruser, famed for his figural jewellery with freshwater pearls. The book, by Judy Colbert and Peggy Tsiamis, aims to provide a thorough look at Ruser’s contribution to jewellery design and his enduring popularity in the market.From Humble Beginnings to StardomRuser’s journey from modest origins to the preferred jeweller of Hollywood’s elite in the mid-20th century is captured in the book. His clientele included names like Elizabeth Taylor and Frank Sinatra. On Ruser’s customer service, the book notes, “Ruser learned a…

The International Gemological Institute (IGI) has introduced a new technology aimed at accurately distinguishing between lab-grown and natural fancy-colored diamonds. Traditional methods for differentiating diamonds, primarily focused on colorless stones, have relied on photoluminescence to detect the source of the diamond. However, these techniques prove ineffective for fancy-colored diamonds, which may undergo treatments like irradiation, heat, and pressure, altering their fluorescence and phosphorescence. To address this, IGI has conducted extensive research to establish a set of procedures specific to each color category of diamonds.Advanced Identification TechniquesUtilizing Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and photoluminescence spectroscopy, combined with magnification, IGI’s new screening process can accurately…

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) recently hosted its annual Presidents’ Meeting in Shanghai, China, at the new Shangrila Hotel in Pudong. This event gathered leaders from the global diamond industry to deliberate on significant issues such as G7 restrictions, the emergence of synthetic diamonds, and the challenges within the Chinese market. The meeting, lasting over three days, aimed at fostering dialogue and strategies to navigate these challenges.Collaborative Efforts and Industry UnityA recurring theme of the meeting was the essential role of cooperation among organisations within the diamond industry. Under the guidance of WFDB President Yoram Dvash, the assembly…

Model Emily Ratajkowski has introduced her “divorce rings,” transforming her Toi et Moi engagement ring into two separate pieces. This step highlights a growing trend in jewellery customisation, where personal items are reimagined to reflect individual journeys and new beginnings.Trend OverviewAfter separating from Sebastian Bear-McClard, Ratajkowski collaborated with Alison Lou, the original designer of her engagement ring, to create two new pieces from the original. These rings, one with a pear-shaped solitaire and another with a princess-cut diamond, demonstrate a creative approach to repurposing significant jewellery. This concept has gained traction, as more people look for ways to retain the…

The UK jewellery industry is set to welcome a new addition to its calendar of events, the ‘Get Stoned Gem Fair’, scheduled for May 23 in Brighton. Founded by four passionate gemstone enthusiasts – Stuart Pool of Nineteen48, gemstone artist Sanni Falkenberg, Kerry Gregory of Gemmology Rocks, and Emma Perry of Emerald Studio – Get Stoned aims to offer a welcoming and educational experience for attendees.Admission DetailsThe fair has set an early bird ticket price of £10 available until March 31, with the standard ticket price at £15 thereafter. The ‘Get Stoned Gem Fair’ will feature 12 gem suppliers and service providers,…

The British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) has revealed a collaboration with Martin Prinsloo of Martin’s Gems, a UKFCG-certified Advance Cutter, for a unique live project aimed at Level 5 Jewellery Design and Manufacturing students. Exclusive Access to Hand-Cut GemstonesMartin Prinsloo has provided BAJ students with access to his range of hand-cut gemstones, such as Rhodolite Garnet, Lavender Quartz, and Topaz. These stones, known for their exceptional quality and craftsmanship, will be the centerpiece of the students’ jewellery designs, presenting them with a rare opportunity to work with high-end materials.Project Goals and ExpectationsOn the project, Martin expressed “To make it interesting and…

The Natural Diamond Council (NDC) has expanded its Education Program to include a new series of roleplay videos and a monthly subscription option, alongside the existing annual subscription. This initiative aims to equip sales advisors and jewellers with practical tools for engaging with consumers, addressing common queries and misconceptions about natural diamonds through realistic scenarios.Educational ExpansionThe newly unveiled component consists of 19 roleplay videos, each created to address common questions and misconceptions about diamonds. These educational materials are intended to aid sales advisors and jewellery professionals in navigating conversations with consumers, ranging from self-purchasers and gift shoppers to couples making joint…

The 2024 Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship & Design Awards was held on 4th March and celebrated outstanding achievements in craftsmanship and design. Hosted at Goldsmiths’ Hall in London, this event brought together 300 key figures from the industry, including designers, representatives from renowned jewellery houses, and media personalities. The ceremony was also live-streamed, extending its audience reach globally.Anne-Marie Reeves, Chair of the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council told guests and award winners addresses,“It’s both an honour and privilege to be standing here tonight as chair of GCDC and part of this amazing industry. For those who are starting on that journey, be inspired…

BriteCo, a prominent provider of jewelry and watch insurance, has integrated International Gemological Institute (IGI) grading reports into its Appraisal Management System. This integration aims to allow retail jewelers to offer quicker, more precise appraisals, improving the assessment for insurance coverage.“There are over 200,000 appraisals in the BriteCo Appraisal Management System from thousands of independent retail jewelers across the United States,” states Dustin Lemick, founder and CEO of BriteCo. “The integration of IGI grading results to our system continues our commitment to provide the very best, tech-powered innovation to our retail jeweler partners.”The Impact of IGI Grading IntegrationThe integration allows…

The Indian diamond industry, recognised as a global leader in cutting and polishing diamonds, is poised to experience a downturn in cut and polished diamond (CPD) exports, projected to fall to around $15-16 billion in the fiscal year 2023-24. This represents a significant decrease, marking a five-year low. The reduced demand from the primary markets, the United States and China, which collectively account for approximately 65% of India’s diamond exports, underpins this trend. Facing various challenges, including shifts in consumer spending, the rise of lab-grown diamonds, geopolitical unrest, and sanctions on Russian-origin diamonds, the sector’s outlook appears cautious.Demand Fluctuations and…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has taken a significant step towards sustainable gold mining practices by awarding a $93,000 grant for the deployment of the Goldrop technology across three Colombian artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) communities. This collaboration between the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) and Mercury Free Mining (MFM), aims to eliminate the need for mercury in gold extraction, presenting a major advancement in efforts to develop a more sustainable and ethical gold mining industry.Enhancing Miner Welfare and Environmental ProtectionThe introduction of Goldrop technology is set to transform the working conditions of arASM miners, significantly reducing health hazards…

Natural Diamond Council (NDC) has introduced a new platform named “Real. Rare. Responsible.” which aim to highlight the inherent beauty, scarcity, and ethical sourcing of natural diamonds and shine a light on the moral obligations of the diamond industry worldwide.“Our mission is to inspire and educate consumers on the unique values of natural diamonds and the positive impact and commitments of the industry,” said Kristina Buckley Kayel, Managing Director & CMO, North America at NDC. “The new framework of Real. Rare. Responsible cohesively ties in our mission throughout NDC’s editorial destination (naturaldiamonds.com), celebrity ambassador and sustainability global advertising campaigns, as…

Queensmith has announced the acquisition of the domain ingleandrhode.co.uk from its administrators for an undisclosed acquisition price.Ingle & Rhode, established in 2007, has been a leading name in the ethical jewellery sector, known for its B-Corp certification and dedication to responsible sourcing. Despite its contributions and esteemed reputation, the brand faced closure in early February 2024 due to the pandemic’s adverse effects, rising operational costs, and increasing competition.Sharing their feelings on the acquisition, the directors of Ingle & Rhode said:“It is with the heaviest of hearts that we took the decision that Ingle & Rhode should cease to trade. This…

The British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) has partnered with acclaimed engagement ring specialist, Lewis Malka, on a project that merges educational pursuit with professional insight. This initiative is part of the academy’s Higher National Certificate (HNC) in Art & Design 3D Design, specifically focusing on Jewellery Design and Manufacturing. It will teach students to design and create bespoke engagement rings that are inspired by various cultures.A Fusion of Education and Industry ExpertiseThe collaboration provides a unique opportunity for students to gain practical experience in the jewellery design and manufacturing process. Guided by Lewis Malka, known for his expert craftsmanship and…

The London Diamond Bourse has recently issued a crucial communication to its members and industry colleagues regarding new governmental guidance on the importation of Russian diamonds into the United Kingdom. This announcement comes in the wake of the UK Government’s latest publication, which outlines the regulations for the import of diamonds processed in third countries but originating from Russia. The letter, signed by David Troostwyk, President of the London Diamond Bourse, delineates the necessary steps and compliance measures for jewellers and traders within the UK, aiming to ensure adherence to the new sanctions’ regime against Russian diamonds.Compliance Measures for ImportersThe…

Nivoda has recently expanded its offerings by introducing both natural and lab-grown melee diamonds. This latest addition to Nivoda’s extensive selection of stones marks a great development, further enhancing the platform’s reputation as a leader in the jewellery marketplace.Melee Diamonds: A New Frontier for NivodaThe introduction of melee diamonds on Nivoda’s platform commenced with a pilot phase targeting a select group of UK customers in August 2023. Following the initial success of this rollout, the company has extended the availability of melee diamonds to customers worldwide, signalling a significant step in its growth trajectory.Nivoda reports a “remarkable” response to the…

IGI has recently introduced a comprehensive set of procedures designed to distinguish between fancy-colored lab-grown diamonds and their natural counterparts. This development comes as a response to the growing challenge in the jewellery industry to identify synthetic stones, which are often treated to emulate the appearance of natural diamonds.IGI’s innovative approach involves the use of Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and photoluminescence spectroscopy, supplemented by traditional magnification techniques. These methods aim to overcome the limitations faced by conventional screening devices that rely on photoluminescence for analyzing a diamond’s fluorescence and phosphorescence under ultraviolet light. According to IGI, such traditional methods…

Antwerp, Belgium – 15 February 2024 – Windiam NV and Trau Bros NV have announced a long-term supply and partnership agreement. This collaboration aims to streamline the supply of high-quality diamonds to the European market.Partnership OverviewUnder the agreement, Windiam gains access to exceptional quality diamonds from Trau Bros, a long-standing sightholder of De Beers. The focus is on sustainable sourcing, with Trau Bros responsible for the sourcing and polishing of diamonds. This arrangement is designed to enhance Windiam’s distribution capabilities across Europe.Industry PerspectiveThis partnership is reflective of the broader industry’s pivot towards sustainable and ethical diamond sourcing. It may influence…

De Beers has initiated a significant pricing strategy shift for its lab-grown diamonds sold through the Lightbox jewelry brand.This move comes in response to the falling wholesale prices of lab-grown diamonds, which have posed financial challenges for producers within this sector. “These price declines are expected to lead to further substantial reductions in retail prices, with De Beers’ Lightbox brand testing significantly lower prices for its products.”Economic and Market DynamicsThe decision to lower prices reflects broader economic pressures and evolving market dynamics. The diamond industry, particularly in the U.S., has been navigating through macro-economic challenges, which have impacted consumer demand…

The London Diamond Bourse has released an open letter addressing the G7 restrictions, which were originally set to come into effect on 1st March 2024. This development follows an emergency meeting convened by the Council of Management to deliberate on the sanctions aimed at Russian origin diamonds, particularly those polished and loose diamonds above 1 carat. The London Diamond Bourse has been actively engaged with industry and government bodies to align with the sanctions while ensuring the uninterrupted flow of trade. However, the lack of clear guidance from the Revenue on compliance with these restrictions has prompted a cautious stance from the Bourse.Key…

Instappraise has joined the Canadian Jewellery Association (CJA) Member Benefits Program. This collaboration is poised to significantly benefit CJA members, offering substantial discounts on Instappraise’s services and aligning with broader industry efforts to enhance appraisal standards and accessibility of advanced tools for jewellery professionals across Canada.Instappraise: Innovating Jewellery AppraisalInstappraise brings to the market a cloud-based solution designed to meet the comprehensive needs of jewellery appraisers. The platform enables the creation of professional, court-ready appraisal documents efficiently and user-friendly. Its mission extends beyond software development, aiming to bolster the jewellery industry by democratizing access to cutting-edge technology for new entrants.Membership Benefits…

Signet Jewellers has announced the appointment of Sandra Cochran to its Board of Directors, effective February 27, 2024. This strategic addition temporarily enlarges the Board to 13 members, with 12 serving independently, aligning with the company’s initiative towards Board tenure limitations as outlined in its Director Tenure Policy.Sandra Cochran’s impressive retail and leadership experience positions her as a significant asset to Signet’s Board. H. Todd Stitzer, the Board Chairman, praised Cochran’s appointment, stating, “Sandy’s rich background in retail, coupled with her strong executive leadership skills and deep financial expertise, will make her an incredibly valuable member of the Signet Board…

In light of recent high-profile design theft cases, including the notable lawsuit between Uniqlo and Shein over the “Mary Poppins” shoulder bag, it seems like an appropriate time for us all in the jewellery industry to remind ourselves of the importance of intellectual property protection. The Rise of Design Theft: A Global Concern Hits HomeThe fashion industry’s battle with design theft is well-documented, but the jewellery sector is equally at risk. With thousands of searches for “stolen design” and millions of views on related content online, it’s clear that design theft is a prevalent issue affecting businesses of all sizes. For UK jewellers,…

The British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) has unveiled an exciting partnership with renowned luxury jewellery house Graff, offering an exclusive opportunity for first-year students enrolled in BAJ’s BA (Hons) Jewellery Design & Production degree. This collaboration marks a significant milestone for both institutions, combining educational excellence with industry expertise to nurture emerging talent in the field of jewellery design.The Prestigious Players: BAJ and GraffEstablished in 1999, the British Academy of Jewellery has earned a reputation as a leading institution dedicated to fostering talent and delivering top-tier education in jewellery design and craftsmanship. With a focus on blending traditional techniques with…

This week, the 17th annual National Apprenticeships Week is underway, drawing attention to the significant contribution apprenticeships make to the evolution of businesses across various sectors. Among those recognising the importance of apprenticeships is the British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ), whose Jewellery Apprenticeship offering stands as a testament to the industry’s commitment to nurturing talent and enhancing skill sets.BAJ’s Apprenticeship ProgrammeThe BAJ has developed a comprehensive Jewellery Apprenticeship programme aligned with the new Standard for Jewellery, Silversmithing, and Allied Trades Professionals. This initiative fosters a synergistic relationship between employers and the training provider and addresses the industry’s urgent need for…

The upcoming Retail Jewellers’ Congress, a key component of the NAJ Summit 2024, marks a significant milestone, celebrating 15 years as a pivotal platform for the dissemination and exchange of industry knowledge among independent jewellers. Scheduled for Monday, 24 June, the Congress promises to be a confluence of experience, expertise, and forward-looking strategies, aptly themed ‘Think Different to Be Different’. This theme captures the essence of the event: a call to arms for jewellers to navigate and excel in the rapidly evolving retail landscape.Key Details:The JET Business Network (JBN), under the stewardship of facilitator Michael Donaldson, seeks to address the…

Gemological Science International (GSI) has brought attention to an alarming increase in the presence of undisclosed lab-grown colored diamonds within the natural diamond inventory. Specifically, diamonds in hues of brown, yellow, and pink are being intermingled with natural diamonds and raising concerns across the sector.Observations from GSI LeadershipDebbie Azar, the President and Co-Founder of GSI, has provided detailed insights into the troubling trend observed by their team. This revelation points to a critical challenge within the industry, particularly as the prevalent jewelry screening technology predominantly focuses on white or near-colorless diamonds, thus potentially overlooking colored synthetic counterparts.Advancements in Diamond Screening…

Alan Gard, a fine jeweller with a career spanning over seven decades, is set to showcase his latest creation, the ‘Imperial State Crown’, in the historic town of Woodstock. The crown, commissioned by author Jeffrey Archer and influenced by his work “Traitors Gate”, is a testament to Gard’s extensive experience and dedication to traditional goldsmithing techniques. This unique piece will be displayed at the Woodstock pop-up shop, offering a rare opportunity for aficionados and industry professionals to appreciate the craftsmanship of a jeweller who has honed his skills since he was 15.Exhibition Details and AvailabilityThe exhibition will take place from 20th February…