Author: Ruchi Singla

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has revised its pearl classification system to include a more detailed nacre grading scale, which will now be applied to all GIA pearl classification reports. The update introduces a five-tiered nacre grading system, replacing the previous binary classification of “Acceptable” and “Unacceptable.” GIA states that the change reflects feedback from pearl industry stakeholders seeking more alignment with other quality factors.From Binary to Graduated AssessmentPreviously, GIA’s nacre evaluation classified pearls as either “Acceptable” or “Unacceptable” based on factors such as thickness, layering, and visible surface damage. The revised system now categorises nacre quality as Excellent, Very…

Dr Gaetano Cavalieri, President of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), has been presented with a Lifetime Achievement Award by the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA). The award was conferred during the ICA Congress held in Brasilia from 19 to 22 May.The ICA award was presented to Dr Cavalieri in recognition of his work supporting standard-setting and international cooperation within the coloured gemstone sector.Statements from ICA LeadershipDamien Cody, President of the ICA, said:“Gaetano Cavalieri stands today as one of the most respected and influential figures in the global jewellery community. His dedication spans decades, and we, as an industry, owe him…

Progress made during 2025 Intersessional in Dubai as African Diamond Producers Association proposes revised languageThe Kimberley Process (KP) has taken a notable step forward toward expanding its definition of “conflict diamonds,” following developments at its 2025 Intersessional meeting held in Dubai from 12–16 May. The advancement stems from a proposal submitted by the African Diamond Producers Association (ADPA), which represents 15 member countries and five observers. This represents a notable step forward in the KP’s ongoing review and reform efforts.Current and Proposed DefinitionThe current definition of conflict diamonds—unchanged since the KP’s inception in 2000—refers only to rough diamonds used by…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has launched GemKit by GemKids, a free digital education resource designed to introduce primary-level students to gemmology. Aimed at pupils in years equivalent to US grades four to six, the programme includes lesson plans, worksheets, videos and activities aligned with the Next Generation Science Standards (NGSS).Curriculum-Aligned Gemmology ContentGemKit is structured to support earth science education and is available for use in classrooms and homeschool settings. The digital programme includes modular unit plans that can be used in full or in part, offering flexibility for educators.Cathryn Ramirez, Chief Learning Officer at GIA, stated: “By bringing the…

De Beers has reportedly been offering rough diamonds at reduced prices to a limited number of trading partners, according to buyers familiar with the matter. These transactions, which fall outside the company’s standard sales framework, are said to involve discounts ranging from 10% to 20% off official prices. De Beers has not publicly confirmed the details of these arrangements and declined to comment when approached.Under usual practice, De Beers conducts ten scheduled sales each year in Botswana for a group of approximately 70 authorised customers, known as sightholders. Prices at these events are fixed, and while purchases are not mandatory,…

Alrosa has recovered a 468.30-carat amber-coloured diamond from the Mir mine in Yakutia, the largest gem-quality stone recorded in Russia to date. It has been named “80 Years of Victory in the Great Patriotic War”, marking the 80th anniversary of the Soviet Union’s World War II victory.Recovery at Reopened Mir MineMeasuring 56mm by 54mm by 22mm, the diamond surpasses the previous Russian record of 401 carats set in 2013. It was recovered from the Mir mine, which resumed operations after being closed in 2017 following a fatal flood that resulted in eight deaths.The Mir mine, active since the Soviet period,…

De Beers Group has announced its intention to close Lightbox, its lab-grown diamond (LGD) jewellery brand, as part of a broader strategy to refocus its operations around natural diamonds. The decision is described as a step in executing the group’s “Origins Strategy”, which was unveiled in May 2024, aimed at simplifying operations and redirecting investment towards core segments.As part of the wind-down, De Beers is in discussions with potential buyers regarding certain Lightbox assets, including inventory. The group confirmed that it will continue to support customers through warranties and after-sales service during the closure process.Declining Lab-Grown Prices Prompt ExitLaunched in…

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) has formally expressed support for an industry-wide request to the U.S. Government, urging the exemption of natural diamonds from proposed import tariffs. The appeal centres around the economic impact that such duties could have on the U.S. jewellery sector and was initiated by the World Diamond Council (WDC).The WDC statement, released earlier this week, calls for natural diamonds (HS Codes 7102.10 and 7102.31) to be included on Annex II, exempting them from the proposed tariffs. The WDC has received backing from multiple trade bodies, including the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), the International…

The newly concluded Free Trade Agreement (FTA) between the United Kingdom and India is expected to impact trade in the gem and jewellery sector, with potential effects for manufacturers, exporters, and retailers in both countries. According to the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), the deal could see India’s jewellery exports to the UK double to $1 billion within a year of implementation, with broader bilateral trade in the sector projected to reach $7 billion in the coming years.A Framework for GrowthThe FTA is part of a wider comprehensive strategic partnership between the UK and India, aimed at enhancing…

The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) has introduced an online tool to help track U.S. tariff changes relevant to the jewellery industry. The Tariff Tracker is now live and provides information on import duties for jewellery, gemstones, and precious metals.Purpose and ScopeAccording to the JVC, the tool outlines how these tariffs may affect import costs, customs compliance, and supply chain planning. It will be updated when changes are announced and serves as a reference point for industry members. The resource is not a substitute for legal advice, and users are encouraged to consult legal professionals for compliance issues.Development and SupportThe tool…

Emmet Cummins will step down as Managing Director of the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ), the UK’s largest jewellery buying group, after five years in the role. The decision was confirmed in a statement issued by CMJ, which is headquartered in Rugby.Five-Year Term Included Strategic OversightCummins was Managing Director during a period that included the COVID-19 pandemic and broader economic pressures. According to CMJ, he “developed and delivered a five-year strategy that unified and stabilised the CMJ through both the pandemic and the economic crisis.”While no further details of his next role have been disclosed, CMJ noted that Cummins felt…

De Beers Group has recommenced its diamond auction operations in Botswana following the relocation of its Auctions business from Singapore to Gaborone. The move consolidates the Group’s global diamond trading activities in Botswana, completing the transfer of its auction operations.The Auctions business is now operating alongside the Group’s Sightholder sales activities already based in Gaborone, which distribute rough diamonds through term contracts and auctions.Pilot Auction Conducted During Cycle 3Sales resumed with a small-scale trial auction during Sales Cycle 3, directed at Sightholder customers. De Beers reported a high level of participation from Sightholder customers during the trial event. The majority of…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has confirmed the reinstatement of its global laboratory operations, including the acceptance of goods requiring shipment to the United States. The update follows a recent suspension of international shipments linked to changes in US import tariffs.International Shipping to the US ReinstatedGIA laboratories outside the United States, including those in Hong Kong and Dubai, have resumed standard service procedures. The organisation is once again accepting items that need to be sent to the US for analysis or certification.“All GIA laboratories have resumed accepting goods according to their local service criteria,” the organisation confirmed in a…

Diamonds Do Good has completed its first “Diamonds Do Good in Action” trip to Botswana. The initiative was designed to provide jewellery industry participants with on-site exposure to natural diamond mining operations and related community projects.The itinerary included visits to the Jwaneng diamond mine and a local diamond cutting and polishing facility. Attendees observed various stages of the supply chain and met employees, including individuals with disabilities, working within the sector.The delegation also met with government representatives to learn how diamond revenues have contributed to infrastructure development, including roads, schools, and hospitals. The visit also included time in the Okavango…

Tiffany & Co. has launched Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder, its latest high jewellery collection. Designed by Chief Artistic Officer Nathalie Verdeille, the collection is divided into six chapters, each inspired by marine forms and environments, and draws on the house’s historic connection to oceanic motifs, particularly those developed by Jean Schlumberger.Design Themes and InspirationThe collection explores themes ranging from ocean flora to aquatic creatures and wave formations, combining natural references with detailed craftsmanship and transformable designs. Verdeille stated:“Each piece in our latest Blue Book collection, Sea of Wonder, captivates and invites us to lose ourselves in the rich…

Phillips has announced highlights for its upcoming Geneva Jewels Auction: IV, scheduled for 12 May 2025 at Hotel President Wilson. The auction will include a range of diamonds, coloured gemstones, Art Deco pieces, and jewels from private collections, some with historical provenance. It will take place alongside the GemGenève fair and forms part of a global highlights tour.Significant Diamonds and Top LotsThe leading lot of the sale is a 53.14-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond pendant. Another notable lot is a pair of D Colour, Flawless diamond earrings, weighing 10.92 and 10.58 carats respectively. Also included in the sale is a…

A recent study by Diamonds Factory has identified a shift in consumer behaviour around engagement ring purchases, with over half (53%) of shoppers in 2025 accompanied by their partner. The findings suggest a decline in traditional surprise proposals, with more couples opting to make the decision together.The insights were gathered from Diamonds Factory store staff, who reported that partners were the most common companions during ring shopping appointments. Parents and solo shoppers each accounted for 18% of cases, followed by siblings or friends at 11%.Retail Environment ConsiderationsElla Citron-Thompkins of Diamonds Factory commented:“We have certainly seen a shift in how couples…

The Goldsmiths’ Centre has opened applications for Shine 2025, a free four-month professional development programme aimed at emerging jewellery and silversmithing businesses in the UK. The programme will support up to 10 early career designer-makers in developing skills to present, price, sell and display their collections across digital and physical platforms.Programme StructureRunning from mid-2025, Shine will combine live webinars, self-paced online modules and practical assignments. Participants will receive training in areas such as collection photography and video, pricing strategies, and preparation for exhibitions and selling events.Participants will present their work through the Goldsmiths’ Centre’s online shop, with the programme concluding in…

De Beers has reported a 44 per cent fall in rough diamond sales revenue for the first quarter of 2025, according to figures released by its parent company, Anglo American. The miner sold 4.7 million carats across its first two sights of the year, generating $520 million, compared to $925 million from 4.6 million carats in the same period of 2024. The average price per carat declined by 38 per cent to $124.Sales and Pricing TrendsThe decline in average price reflects a combination of a 15 per cent drop in De Beers’ rough diamond price index, a shift in the…

The National Association of Jewellers’ Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV) has confirmed the programme of workshops and masterclasses for the 2025 Valuers’ Conference, taking place on 7–8 June at Edgbaston Park Hotel, Birmingham. The Conference will feature keynote talks, workshops, and masterclasses for professionals across the jewellery trade, including valuers, retailers, designers, students, and sales professionals. The workshops and masterclasses will run throughout Sunday, 8 June, offering 26 sessions covering a range of technical and business topics relevant to the sector.Sessions have been extended to 90 minutes to allow for more detailed instruction.Workshop sessions include:Heather Callaway, Chair of the IRV, said,”We…

Fine jewelry manufacturer Jewelex and wearable technology company Ultrahuman have unveiled Rare, described as the world’s first luxury smart ring. The collaboration was announced at CES 2025 in Las Vegas, bringing together traditional craftsmanship and modern health monitoring technology.Jewelex, with a 59-year heritage in fine jewelry, and Ultrahuman, known for health-focused wearables such as the Ultrahuman Ring AIR and Ultrahuman M1 glucose monitoring platform, have partnered to integrate jewelry techniques with embedded health sensors.Manufacturing and Design DetailsRare is produced using CNC machining for micron-level accuracy, followed by hand-finishing. Jewelex applies sustainable practices, operating on 100% renewable energy since January 2023…

A diamond cutter in Israel is facing legal proceedings that could see him personally liable for the full value of a $270,000 (approximately 1 million shekels) diamond that was destroyed during the cutting process. The case involves the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) Arbitration Tribunal, two supplier companies, and legal proceedings initiated in the Tel Aviv District Court.Background to the IncidentThe diamond cutter, identified only as Y, was employed by a company owned by his brother when the incident occurred. While processing the stone — a recognised high-risk aspect of diamond processing — the diamond shattered, rendering it worthless. Such breakages…

Sanctions imposed by the G7 countries on Russian diamonds are proving largely ineffective, according to Pyotr Karakchiev, head of the international cooperation department at Alrosa, speaking at the Khozaktiv-2025 corporate forum. Karakchiev said the absence of a global tracing system for rough diamonds is a key factor limiting the sanctions’ impact.Tracing Deficiencies and Industry-Specific ChallengesKarakchiev stated that although sanctions “force us to come up with new means of interaction,” they have not achieved the intended effect. “The sanctions that our adversaries dreamed up were supposed to affect us in a big way but they are not achieving the necessary effect,…

Swiss watch exports rose by 1.5% year-on-year in March 2025, reaching CHF 2.13 billion, following declines in the previous months. The growth was primarily driven by increased demand from the United States and the United Kingdom, while markets in Asia continued to show signs of contraction. Despite the monthly gain, export figures for the first quarter of 2025 remained slightly negative overall, down 1.1% to CHF 6.11 billion.Market Performance by RegionThe United States remained the leading market for Swiss watches, with exports rising 13.7% in March to CHF 405.2 million. Japan and the United Kingdom followed with growth of 1.1%…

Bulgari has expanded its production facility in Valenza, Italy, making it the largest single-brand jewellery manufacturing site globally. The site, operated under LVMH ownership, now covers more than 355,000 square feet and is expected to create 500 additional jobs by 2029. The development consolidates production and introduces expanded training capabilities.Increased Manufacturing Capacity and Workforce GrowthSince opening in 2017, Bulgari’s Valenza site has grown from 14,000 square meters to more than 33,000 square meters following the addition of two new buildings. Employee numbers have increased from 370 to over 1,100, with a target of 1,600 to 1,700 workers by the end…

India’s gem and jewellery exports for the financial year April 2024 to March 2025 totalled US$28.50 billion (₹2,41,089.50 crore), reflecting an 11.72% decline year-on-year in US dollar terms, according to provisional figures released by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). Imports over the same period fell by 11.96% to US$19.61 billion (₹1,65,819.35 crore).For March 2025, exports showed a slight increase of 1.02% year-on-year to US$2.58 billion, while imports decreased by 7.2% to US$1.94 billion.Cut and Polished DiamondsExports of cut and polished diamonds totalled US$13.29 billion (₹1,12,410.58 crore) for FY 2024–25, representing a 16.75% year-on-year decline. Imports decreased by…

The Sunderland Collection and GRIMA have announced the release of their second collaborative jewellery collection, Dürer Wings, drawing on imagery from a rare 16th-century map by Albrecht Dürer.The collection includes a series of handcrafted earrings inspired by Dürer’s World Map as a Sphere (1515), specifically the illustrated “windheads” that appear around the map. The collection consists of three limited-edition earring designs—six pairs of each—made in textured gold with diamonds, textured platinum with diamonds, and platinum with pavé diamonds. Two unique pieces were also produced: one pair in hand-carved frosted rock crystal and diamonds, and another in hand-carved black jade and…

The British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) will hold an online information session on 30 April 2025 for employers in the jewellery sector interested in learning more about apprenticeship opportunities.Webinar Details and AimsTaking place at 16:00 BST, the session will provide an overview of BAJ’s Jewellery Apprenticeship programme, including training content, available government funding, and employer guidance. It is intended for business owners, brand representatives, workshop managers, and HR professionals considering workforce expansion through apprenticeships.Miranda Sharpe, Apprenticeship Coordinator and Birmingham Centre Lead at BAJ, said:“This is a great opportunity for employers to have their questions answered regarding Jewellery, Silversmithing and Allied…

The Victoria and Albert Museum will open Cartier: The Exhibition on 12 April 2025, featuring over 350 pieces created by the French jewellery house. The exhibition traces Cartier’s development from its origins as a Paris-based family firm to an international jeweller, with an emphasis on its long-standing connections to the British royal family.Curated by Helen Molesworth, the show brings together loans from international institutions, private collectors, and the Royal Collection. The display presents examples of Cartier’s design and craftsmanship from the early 20th century to the present day.Royal Patronage and Historic CommissionsCartier’s relationship with the British monarchy began in 1902,…

The British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) has received a ‘Good’ rating in its latest inspection by Ofsted, maintaining the grade it was awarded in 2019. The 2025 review focused on the academy’s Further Education programmes, including the Level 3 Diploma in Jewellery Design and Manufacturing and the Level 3 Jewellery, Silversmithing and Allied Trades Professional Apprenticeship.Ofsted’s inspection evaluated the quality of teaching, learning, leadership and management, as well as the support provided to learners and apprentices. Inspectors reported that learners remained engaged in their courses and showed commitment to their studies, including in technically complex areas such as computer-aided design (CAD)…