Author: Ruchi Singla

Alexandria, a new London men’s high jewellery brand, launches today with a collection of 18k gold rings inspired by men who have shaped empires. Channelling Alexander the Great, Julius Caesar, and Genghis Khan, the debut designs combine natural gemstones, guilloché grand feu enamel, and sculptural relief portraits of these historic conquerors who altered the course of civilisation. Founded by Ryan Bernell, Alexandria was born from a 10-year search for jewellery that upheld both masculine strength and artistic beauty. This search ultimately revealed a void in the luxury market. “I spent more than a decade looking for jewellery that was both…

The Goldsmiths’ Centre is now accepting applications for Getting Started Online, a free, one-week business course for early-career designer-jewellers, silversmiths and craftspeople based in the UK. The course will take place from Monday, 9 to Friday, 13 March 2026 and will be delivered entirely online. Course Content and Format The online course provides business training sessions delivered by professionals working in the industry. It covers topics including product development, branding and selling, establishing sales channels and planning for growth. A keynote session will feature Annie Warburton, CEO of the Goldsmiths’ Company, in conversation with British jewellery designer Annoushka Ducas MBE.…

The four UK Assay Offices — Birmingham, Edinburgh, London and Sheffield — supported by the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ), have issued an open letter to the Secretary of State for Business and Trade, Peter Kyle MP, requesting a review of the Hallmarking Act 1973. The letter outlines concerns that the current legislation does not adequately regulate the sale of precious metal goods through online marketplaces, social media platforms and livestream commerce, leading to the sale of unhallmarked products and creating an uneven trading environment for UK jewellers that follow current hallmarking requirements. Limitations of the Existing Framework Hallmarking is…

Botswana’s president, Duma Boko, has reaffirmed the country’s commitment to acquiring a majority stake in De Beers, currently majority-owned by Anglo American, despite warnings from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) about the potential economic risks involved. The Southern African nation already holds a 15% stake in De Beers. It has indicated its intention to expand that holding following Anglo American’s announcement that it plans to divest from the diamond business. Government Plans and Rationale Speaking in Kanye, President Boko dismissed the IMF’s advice, saying Batswana would make the decision based on the country’s needs. He stated that Botswana’s heavy contribution…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced it will introduce redesigned coloured stone reports and expand its origin-determination services, effective 1 January 2026. The updated reports will apply to all items submitted on or after this date. The updated reports will feature changes to design and structure, with a focus on presenting gemological data in a more transparent and more standardised format. Additional Gemstone Origin Determinations From 2026, GIA will begin offering country-of-origin determination services for opal, peridot and demantoid garnet. These are additions to the current origin services provided for alexandrite, emerald, Paraíba tourmaline, red spinel, ruby, sapphire…

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced changes to its Standards Committee, including the appointment of new Co-Chairs and the addition of new members from across the jewellery and mining sectors. The committee is responsible for overseeing the development and revision of RJC’s standards, including the Code of Practices, Chain of Custody, and Laboratory Grown Materials frameworks. The changes, effective from 1 January 2026, are intended to align RJC’s standards with evolving regulatory and sustainability requirements in the industry. New Leadership Sara Yood, President and CEO of the Jewellers Vigilance Committee (JVC), and Eduard Stefanescu, Sustainability Manager at C.HAFNER GmbH…

Wesley Tucker will step down as Chief Executive Officer of Tracr at the end of February 2026, De Beers Group has announced. A successor will be named in due course. Leadership and platform development Tucker joined De Beers Group in April 2021 as Head of Digital Transformation before taking on leadership of Tracr, the Group’s blockchain-based diamond traceability platform. During his time as CEO, Tracr moved from pilot stage to commercial deployment, with more than four million diamonds now registered on the platform. The platform has been listed three times on the Forbes Blockchain 50. Under Tucker’s leadership, Tracr introduced…

The National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) has published an updated Code of Practice to support jewellery businesses in meeting legal requirements for weighing equipment when dealing with precious metals and gemstones. The revised guidance was developed with the input of Trading Standards, which requested clearer direction for the sector. Guidance on Equipment Compliance The Code of Practice sets out what jewellers must look for when using weighing instruments, including the required approvals and markings. It also explains the importance of using correctly calibrated instruments, particularly Class II instruments, and highlights how their compliance may be affected by the equipment’s location…

Sheffield Assay Office has announced the appointment of Sara Hale as its new Head of Commercial Operations. This strategic hire comes at a time when the organisation is focusing on strengthening its commercial services and identifying new areas for development within the hallmarking and analytical sectors. Role at Sheffield Assay Office In her new role, Hale will oversee the commercial functions of Sheffield Assay Office, including hallmarking and analytical services. She will collaborate with internal teams and external partners to support operational improvements and explore areas for business development. Ashley Carson, Assay Master, said: “I am delighted that Sara has…

Eighteen Antwerp-based diamond companies have jointly financed a year’s worth of essential medicines and medical supplies for more than 35,000 patients in Botswana, following a national medical emergency declared earlier this year. Response to Medical Emergency Botswana’s Minister of Minerals and Energy, Joy Kenewendo, visited Antwerp this week to thank the participating companies for their support. The initiative was coordinated by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), which oversaw the purchase of urgent medical supplies for the treatment of diabetes and cardiac patients. The medical funding follows Botswana’s announcement of a severe shortage of essential medicines during the summer. The…

The Natural Diamond Council (NDC) has announced the appointment of Amber Pepper as its next Chief Executive Officer. She will succeed David Kellie, who will step down at the end of 2025. Role and Priorities In her new role, Pepper will lead the organisation’s efforts to strengthen consumer demand for natural diamonds and act as a central voice for the industry. The NDC stated that Pepper will prioritise work on digital engagement strategies aimed at younger consumers, supported by data-driven marketing. Her remit also includes shaping messaging around natural diamonds, with an emphasis on commercial results and reinforcing their position…

London Trading Standards has been recognised by the British Hallmarking Council (BHC) with the 2025 Touchstone Award for its work in enforcing hallmarking legislation. The award was presented at the annual Touchstone Award Training Day, held on 18 November at the London Assay Office, part of The Goldsmiths’ Company. The event was attended by officers from eight London boroughs, as well as representatives from the BHC, London Assay Office, and supporting organisations. Hallmarking Enforcement Recognised The Touchstone Award, supported by the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) and the Chartered Trading Standards Institute (CTSI), acknowledges Trading Standards teams that enforce the…

De Beers Group has launched its branded polished diamond line, ORIGIN De Beers Group, in retail stores across North America – the first time the range has been made available in physical retail environments. Retail Rollout and Distribution ORIGIN De Beers Group is now available through 19 retail partners operating 30 locations across the United States and Canada. Distribution is being facilitated through two De Beers Sightholders, Grandview Klein and Mahendra Brothers. Participating retailers include Wempe, London Jewelers, Gunderson’s, Mountz Jewelers, and others. Traceability and Blockchain Integration Each ORIGIN De Beers Group diamond over 0.3 carats is traceable through Tracr,…

The World Diamond Council (WDC) has called on participants of the 2025 Kimberley Process (KP) plenary to adopt a revised definition of conflict diamonds. WDC president Feriel Zerouki called on member governments to support the proposed changes during the plenary’s opening session in Dubai. The proposal is the result of three years of collaboration between the WDC, the African Diamond Producers Association (ADPA), and the Civil Society Coalition (CSC). Proposed Changes to the Definition The current KP definition limits conflict diamonds to rough stones used by rebel movements to fund conflicts against legitimate governments. The revised definition seeks to expand…

Mountain Province Diamonds has announced that Mark Wall will step down as president and CEO on 19 December 2025. He will remain with the company until then while a successor is identified. Company chairman Jonathan Comerford said: “On behalf of the board, I would like to thank Mark for his substantial contribution to the company and the operations of the [Gahcho Kué] mine over the past four years, during what has been a very challenging period for both the company and the diamond industry as a whole.” Wall joined Mountain Province in 2021. Before that, he was CEO of Streamers…

Ankit Gems, a De Beers Sightholder, has opened an expanded cutting and polishing facility in Windhoek, Namibia, increasing its monthly processing capacity from 3,500 to 10,000 carats. The project, undertaken with Namibian shareholders, supports the government’s beneficiation policy to improve local involvement in the diamond sector. Facility Expansion and Workforce Growth The new 3,000-square-metre facility triples the Site’s previous size and is expected to support a workforce of between 400 and 450 employees, up from the current 148. The company reports that 75% of the existing workforce is women. The facility was inaugurated on 7 November 2025 by Namibian President…

De Beers recorded a 38% year-on-year increase in diamond production in the third quarter of 2025, reaching 7.7 million carats, with a significant proportion of the increase due to higher output at the Jwaneng mine in Botswana. Sales volumes and revenue also rose, though trading conditions remained difficult due to tariff changes and discounted pricing strategies. Regional Production Overview Production in Botswana, De Beers’ largest contributor, rose by 51 percent to 6 million carats. Output at the Jwaneng mine more than doubled to 3.2 million carats, driven by the processing of higher-grade ore ahead of a planned plant maintenance shutdown…

The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ), the largest buying group for specialist jewellery and watch retailers in the UK and Ireland, has appointed Patrick Turner as its new Managing Director. Turner joined the organisation in November 2023 as Director of Membership Development. Leadership Appointment Turner was appointed following a formal recruitment process by the CMJ Board, which noted his involvement in recent developments and support for independent jewellery retail. Commenting on the appointment, Michael Aldridge, Chairman of the CMJ, said, “After a thorough and open recruitment process, the Board’s decision to appoint Patrick to the role was unanimous. We are…

Gemological Science International (GSI) has identified undisclosed lab-grown diamonds in jewellery set with natural brown diamonds. The discovery comes at a time when off-colour natural diamonds, including brown and champagne hues, are being positioned in the trade as alternatives to colourless stones. Detection methods and findings GSI used Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), DiamondView imaging and Raman spectroscopy with liquid nitrogen cooling to analyse the items. Lab-grown diamonds were found mixed with natural brown diamonds, with colours ranging from near colourless with faint brown modifiers to fancy dark brown. The organisation stated that these findings are consistent with earlier research…

The National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) has announced the winners of the 2025 NAJ Awards at a ceremony held at the ICC Birmingham, attended by 394 industry professionals. Supported by headline sponsor Curteis, the awards recognised achievements across 15 categories spanning retail, design, manufacturing and service provision in the UK jewellery industry. Awards Overview Fourteen category sponsors joined Curteis in supporting this year’s awards. These included eBay, TH March, RWK Goodman, Positive Luxury, At The Bench, Vulcan Jewellery, Cooksongold, the Jewellery Show, Squash Media Group, BATF, 4D Design Agency, Retail Jeweller and Janus Security Services. Supporting sponsors were GVUK Design…

The British Hallmarking Council (BHC) will retain its regulatory responsibilities under the Department for Business and Trade (DBT), following a government review of arm’s-length bodies (ALBs) carried out as part of the Regulation Action Plan. The decision was confirmed at a recent meeting of the BHC, held at the Sheffield Assay Office, after the Council had earlier been named for abolition in a speech by Business and Trade Secretary Peter Kyle. Transfer of Responsibilities Although plans for the closure of the BHC were outlined at the Regional Investment Summit on 21 October, it has since been confirmed that the Council’s…

The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) has released the tenth and final pre-congress Special Report ahead of the 2025 CIBJO Congress, which opens in Paris on 27 October.  Prepared by the CIBJO Technology Committee, chaired by Stéphane Fischler, the report examines artificial intelligence (AI) as both a disruptor and an enabler within the jewellery sector. The paper examines AI’s potential applications in design, manufacturing and trading, and the challenges of maintaining creativity, ethics and transparency as these technologies become more common in the industry. “AI is neither inherently good nor bad,” Mr Fischler wrote. “Its success depends on how it is…

A new model for assessing gemstone durability, developed by Kennon Young of the Vermont Gemological Laboratory, has been introduced to the trade. Known as Young’s Durability Scale, it proposes a weighted, multi-factor approach to durability that extends beyond the traditional reliance on the Mohs scale of hardness. Beyond Hardness: A Revised Approach to Durability The Mohs scale, first introduced in 1812, has long served as the standard for evaluating gemstone wearability. However, it primarily measures surface scratch resistance and does not account for other critical aspects of durability. The new model by Young incorporates three core factors: hardness (35 percent…

Eight items of historical jewellery once owned by members of France’s 19th-century royal and imperial families have been stolen from the Louvre Museum in Paris in a coordinated theft that lasted less than ten minutes. The pieces, which belonged to Empress Eugénie, Empress Marie-Louise, Queen Marie-Amélie and Queen Hortense, were taken from the Apollo Gallery during opening hours. French police are treating the theft as the work of an organised criminal group. Break-In and Escape The incident took place on Sunday morning, 19 October, shortly after the museum opened to visitors. Four individuals arrived with a vehicle-mounted crane and used…

A complete set of Stuart Devlin’s Twelve Days of Christmas surprise boxes, from the late silversmith’s personal collection, is to be auctioned this month at Woolley & Wallis. Set Offered from Devlin’s Personal Collection The boxed miniatures, created between 1970 and 1981, were part of a limited series produced annually by Devlin, with each piece illustrating a verse from the traditional carol The Twelve Days of Christmas. This set is number three in a series of 100 and is being sold by Devlin’s widow, Carole Devlin. Each item is made in silver, silver-gilt and enamel, housed in its original fitted…

Birmingham City Council has placed a group of Victorian workshops on Vyse Street in the Jewellery Quarter up for sale, prompting concern from jewellers, trade bodies and educators. The decision was made without consultation with tenants or representative organisations, despite the area’s recent designation as a World Craft City. The Jewellery Quarter is home to more than 700 businesses and is estimated to produce around 40% of all jewellery made in the UK. In 2022, it generated £767 million for Birmingham’s economy and contributed nearly £1 billion annually to the UK economy. The area has operated as a centre for…

De Beers Group has launched Desert diamonds, its first new category beacon in over a decade, supported by its largest marketing investment in more than ten years. The initiative focuses on promoting natural diamonds with earthy tones, inspired by desert landscapes. The Desert diamonds concept was first introduced at JCK Las Vegas earlier this year and now forms the basis of an international consumer campaign. New Beacon Concept with Natural Colour Focus A De Beers beacon is a category-wide initiative intended to align the jewellery industry around a shared theme. Previous examples include the tennis bracelet and the eternity ring.…

Natural polished diamonds of European origin, including those polished in Antwerp, will now be exempt from US import tariffs under a new executive order issued by the United States. The decision follows negotiations led by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) and applies retroactively from 1 September. It removes the standard 15% duty that was previously applied to these goods, placing diamonds alongside other industrial exports such as metals, pharmaceuticals and chemicals on the US exemption list. The exemption is part of a wider trade arrangement between the European Commission and the US government. The relevant goods are included in…

A new promotional campaign from Bangkok-based manufacturer Universal Chains has become the latest indicator of the ongoing debate around price and perceived value in the lab-grown diamond sector. Unveiled under its wholesale brand Gen Z Diamonds at the recent Jewellery & Gem World (JGW) trade show in Hong Kong, the company is offering jewellery where customers pay only for the gold, with lab-grown diamonds included at no cost. Reflecting Shifting Market Dynamics The offer was advertised with the line: “We only charge for the gold, the lab diamonds are free.” It comes at a time when gold prices remain at…

Rio Tinto has launched the final edition of its Beyond Rare Tender, a collection of rare coloured diamonds sourced from its now-closed Argyle mine in Western Australia and the Diavik mine in Canada, which is scheduled to cease production in 2026. Titled Into the Light, this third and final instalment of Rio Tinto’s Art Series comprises 52 lots totalling 45.44 carats. It includes a mix of single stones and sets of pink, red, violet, yellow and white diamonds, representing some of the last production from the Argyle and Diavik mines over the past three decades. Details of the Final Offering…