Author: Ruchi Singla

The National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) has announced the winners of the 2025 NAJ Awards at a ceremony held at the ICC Birmingham, attended by 394 industry professionals. Supported by headline sponsor Curteis, the awards recognised achievements across 15 categories spanning retail, design, manufacturing and service provision in the UK jewellery industry. Awards Overview Fourteen category sponsors joined Curteis in supporting this year’s awards. These included eBay, TH March, RWK Goodman, Positive Luxury, At The Bench, Vulcan Jewellery, Cooksongold, the Jewellery Show, Squash Media Group, BATF, 4D Design Agency, Retail Jeweller and Janus Security Services. Supporting sponsors were GVUK Design…

The British Hallmarking Council (BHC) will retain its regulatory responsibilities under the Department for Business and Trade (DBT), following a government review of arm’s-length bodies (ALBs) carried out as part of the Regulation Action Plan. The decision was confirmed at a recent meeting of the BHC, held at the Sheffield Assay Office, after the Council had earlier been named for abolition in a speech by Business and Trade Secretary Peter Kyle. Transfer of Responsibilities Although plans for the closure of the BHC were outlined at the Regional Investment Summit on 21 October, it has since been confirmed that the Council’s…

The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) has released the tenth and final pre-congress Special Report ahead of the 2025 CIBJO Congress, which opens in Paris on 27 October.  Prepared by the CIBJO Technology Committee, chaired by Stéphane Fischler, the report examines artificial intelligence (AI) as both a disruptor and an enabler within the jewellery sector. The paper examines AI’s potential applications in design, manufacturing and trading, and the challenges of maintaining creativity, ethics and transparency as these technologies become more common in the industry. “AI is neither inherently good nor bad,” Mr Fischler wrote. “Its success depends on how it is…

A new model for assessing gemstone durability, developed by Kennon Young of the Vermont Gemological Laboratory, has been introduced to the trade. Known as Young’s Durability Scale, it proposes a weighted, multi-factor approach to durability that extends beyond the traditional reliance on the Mohs scale of hardness. Beyond Hardness: A Revised Approach to Durability The Mohs scale, first introduced in 1812, has long served as the standard for evaluating gemstone wearability. However, it primarily measures surface scratch resistance and does not account for other critical aspects of durability. The new model by Young incorporates three core factors: hardness (35 percent…

Eight items of historical jewellery once owned by members of France’s 19th-century royal and imperial families have been stolen from the Louvre Museum in Paris in a coordinated theft that lasted less than ten minutes. The pieces, which belonged to Empress Eugénie, Empress Marie-Louise, Queen Marie-Amélie and Queen Hortense, were taken from the Apollo Gallery during opening hours. French police are treating the theft as the work of an organised criminal group. Break-In and Escape The incident took place on Sunday morning, 19 October, shortly after the museum opened to visitors. Four individuals arrived with a vehicle-mounted crane and used…

A complete set of Stuart Devlin’s Twelve Days of Christmas surprise boxes, from the late silversmith’s personal collection, is to be auctioned this month at Woolley & Wallis. Set Offered from Devlin’s Personal Collection The boxed miniatures, created between 1970 and 1981, were part of a limited series produced annually by Devlin, with each piece illustrating a verse from the traditional carol The Twelve Days of Christmas. This set is number three in a series of 100 and is being sold by Devlin’s widow, Carole Devlin. Each item is made in silver, silver-gilt and enamel, housed in its original fitted…

Birmingham City Council has placed a group of Victorian workshops on Vyse Street in the Jewellery Quarter up for sale, prompting concern from jewellers, trade bodies and educators. The decision was made without consultation with tenants or representative organisations, despite the area’s recent designation as a World Craft City. The Jewellery Quarter is home to more than 700 businesses and is estimated to produce around 40% of all jewellery made in the UK. In 2022, it generated £767 million for Birmingham’s economy and contributed nearly £1 billion annually to the UK economy. The area has operated as a centre for…

De Beers Group has launched Desert diamonds, its first new category beacon in over a decade, supported by its largest marketing investment in more than ten years. The initiative focuses on promoting natural diamonds with earthy tones, inspired by desert landscapes. The Desert diamonds concept was first introduced at JCK Las Vegas earlier this year and now forms the basis of an international consumer campaign. New Beacon Concept with Natural Colour Focus A De Beers beacon is a category-wide initiative intended to align the jewellery industry around a shared theme. Previous examples include the tennis bracelet and the eternity ring.…

Natural polished diamonds of European origin, including those polished in Antwerp, will now be exempt from US import tariffs under a new executive order issued by the United States. The decision follows negotiations led by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) and applies retroactively from 1 September. It removes the standard 15% duty that was previously applied to these goods, placing diamonds alongside other industrial exports such as metals, pharmaceuticals and chemicals on the US exemption list. The exemption is part of a wider trade arrangement between the European Commission and the US government. The relevant goods are included in…

A new promotional campaign from Bangkok-based manufacturer Universal Chains has become the latest indicator of the ongoing debate around price and perceived value in the lab-grown diamond sector. Unveiled under its wholesale brand Gen Z Diamonds at the recent Jewellery & Gem World (JGW) trade show in Hong Kong, the company is offering jewellery where customers pay only for the gold, with lab-grown diamonds included at no cost. Reflecting Shifting Market Dynamics The offer was advertised with the line: “We only charge for the gold, the lab diamonds are free.” It comes at a time when gold prices remain at…

Rio Tinto has launched the final edition of its Beyond Rare Tender, a collection of rare coloured diamonds sourced from its now-closed Argyle mine in Western Australia and the Diavik mine in Canada, which is scheduled to cease production in 2026. Titled Into the Light, this third and final instalment of Rio Tinto’s Art Series comprises 52 lots totalling 45.44 carats. It includes a mix of single stones and sets of pink, red, violet, yellow and white diamonds, representing some of the last production from the Argyle and Diavik mines over the past three decades. Details of the Final Offering…

Hundreds of large-format retail stores across the UK could face closure if the government implements a proposed higher business rates surtax for properties with a rateable value exceeding £500,000. New analysis from the British Retail Consortium (BRC) suggests that up to 400 such stores are at risk, with the potential loss of 100,000 jobs and a significant impact on local high streets. Impact of Proposed Surtax on Large Stores The BRC’s research focuses on a government proposal to introduce a higher business rates tax band affecting retail, hospitality and leisure (RHL) premises with high rateable values. The government intends to…

Antwerp’s diamond district is experiencing a sharp increase in trading activity this September, with eight rough diamond auctions scheduled across the month. Four of these are being held simultaneously in the first week alone, drawing more than 1,800 diamantaires from across the globe to bid on 900 parcels of rough stones. According to the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), the volume of tenders and number of participants highlight Antwerp’s continued role as a key international hub for rough diamond trade. Infrastructure and Capacity Enabling Concurrent Auctions The auctions are being hosted by Bonas, a long-established Antwerp-based diamond auction house. Bonas…

The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) will consider revisions to its standards on diamond terminology and grading at its 2025 Congress, scheduled to take place in Paris from 27 to 29 October. The proposals, led by Udi Sheintal, President of CIBJO’s Diamond Commission, address terminology for synthetic diamonds, the use of the 4Cs grading system, and increased disclosure around diamond origins. The proposed changes come at a time when the natural diamond sector is facing falling demand, reduced production and growing overlap in how natural and synthetic diamonds are described and marketed. Revisiting Earlier Decisions At the 2010 CIBJO Congress in…

The National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) has partnered with the National Business Register (NBR) to provide members with access to intellectual property (IP) support services aimed at helping jewellers protect their brands, designs and business names. The initiative offers a package of IP-related resources and services at discounted rates for NAJ members, covering trade mark advice, design registrations and business name protection. Details of the support package The collaboration includes: Supporting creativity and business protection Paul Smith, Membership Manager at the NAJ, said: “Protecting creativity, design, and business reputation is essential for the success and resilience of our members. This…

The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) has announced the speaker line-up and venue for its annual Gem-A Conference, set to take place on 1–2 November 2025 at The Leonardo Royal Hotel London St Paul’s. Speakers representing international gemmological laboratories, academic institutions and museums will present on a range of subjects, including gemstone identification, origin, treatment, artificial intelligence and sustainability. Programme Overview The conference opens on Saturday 1 November with a presentation from Purvi Shah, Head of Ethical and Sustainable Value Chains at De Beers Group, titled The Blue List – the Responsible Jewellery Supply Chain Lexicon – Why Words…

The third edition of Antwerp Jewellery Week (AJW) will take place from 8 to 12 October 2025, featuring over 50 jewellers, designers and students from Belgium and abroad. The event will include exhibitions, talks, workshops and guided tours across various venues in the city, with a focus on both traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design. Programme Highlights and Thematic Focus This year’s theme, Back to Basics, focuses on the historical foundations of jewellery craftsmanship in Antwerp. The programme will include a presentation on Wim Ibens, who established Atelier 35 at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. The atelier is…

An executive order issued on 5 September includes a new annex listing natural goods that may qualify for duty-free importation, including unset diamonds, natural pearls and coloured gemstones. The exemptions would apply only to imports from countries that have signed formal trade agreements with the United States. The order does not apply to finished jewellery, cultured pearls or laboratory-grown diamonds. Annex III: Scope and Conditions The newly introduced annex, titled Potential Tariff Adjustments for Aligned Partners, outlines a list of products that are either not found in the United States or are only available in limited quantities. These include unset…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has examined the second largest rough diamond ever recorded, weighing 2,488.32 carats. The examination took place in July 2025 at the GIA laboratory in Gaborone, Botswana. The diamond, recovered by Lucara Diamond Corporation at the Karowe mine in August 2024, was originally 2,492 carats before minor breakage during cleaning and analysis. Known as ‘Motswedi’—meaning ‘water spring’ in Setswana;the stone was named through a public competition in Botswana. It is surpassed in size only by the 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond discovered in 1905 in South Africa. Type IIa with no detectable nitrogen GIA’s analysis confirmed that…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced changes to its grading services for D-to-Z laboratory-grown diamonds, effective from 1 October 2025. Current GIA services for these diamonds will remain available until 30 September. New Assessment Structure Under the updated framework, GIA will no longer apply the natural diamond grading system to laboratory-grown diamonds. Instead, stones will be categorised as either ‘Premium’ or ‘Standard’ based on combined evaluations of clarity, colour and cut. Pritesh Patel, GIA president and CEO, stated: “Using descriptive terms for the quality of laboratory-grown diamonds is appropriate as most fall into a very narrow range of…

De Beers Group has published its 2024 sustainability report, highlighting advancements across its four priority areas: climate, livelihoods, nature and provenance.  The update also includes details on new consumer propositions that use blockchain technology to support transparency across the diamond supply chain. Climate Goals and Energy Initiatives De Beers has reduced its Scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 7% compared to its 2021 baseline. The group is working toward near-term targets validated by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi), which include reducing absolute Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 42% and Scope 3 emissions by 25% by 2030.…

The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) has announced the launch of a new one-day trade show, Access, scheduled for Tuesday 3 March 2026. Organised and operated by the CMJ, the event will take place in the Midlands and follow directly after its Spring Trade Event. It will be open to all bricks-and-mortar retail jewellers in the UK and Ireland. Industry-Wide Expansion Access will be CMJ’s first industry-wide event, following a series of member-only trade shows. It is intended to give suppliers an additional route to market and connect with a wider range of retail jewellers. The decision to expand follows…

A 21.25-carat pink diamond worth $25 million was stolen in Dubai during a planned theft involving individuals posing as prospective buyers. The stone, brought to the city by a European trader for a private sale, was recovered within eight hours following a police operation and the arrest of three suspects. Long-term set-up According to Dubai Police, the suspects spent over a year preparing for the theft. They posed as representatives of a wealthy client and arranged multiple meetings with the trader at luxury hotels. To build credibility, they hired an individual to act as a gem expert and inspected the…

Claire’s Holdings LLC has agreed to sell its intellectual property and a number of its North American retail stores to an affiliate of Ames Watson. The announcement forms part of Claire’s wider restructuring efforts under Chapter 11 proceedings in the United States and the Companies’ Creditors Arrangement Act (CCAA) in Canada. The proposed transaction includes the acquisition of Claire’s business operations in North America and remains subject to court approval in both jurisdictions and other standard closing conditions. Impact on Store Closures and Operations Claire’s has paused the liquidation process at a significant number of its North American stores included…

Lucapa Diamond Company, the ASX-listed miner with operations in Angola and Australia, is set to be acquired by Dubai-based Gaston International, a subsidiary of Jemora Group. The proposed A$15 million (US$10 million) deal follows Lucapa’s entry into administration in May. Creditor Approval Sought for Acquisition The administrators, KordaMentha, have signed a deed of company arrangement with Gaston International. The plan includes full repayment of creditors and a partial return to shareholders. It remains subject to creditor and court approval, with a vote scheduled for 20 August. Lucapa entered administration following a downturn in natural diamond prices, increased competition from laboratory-grown…

Pandora has announced plans to close up to 100 underperforming concept stores in mainland China as part of efforts to optimise its global retail footprint. This is double the number of closures previously expected. The company has already closed 22 stores in China so far this year. China’s share of Pandora’s global revenue declined from 9% in 2019 to 1% in 2024. The brand’s customisable ‘bracelet + charm’ concept initially attracted interest from younger consumers, but the category has since become common among domestic gold jewellery retailers, reducing its distinctiveness in the market. Global Store Openings to Continue While the…

Angola’s state-owned diamond company Endiama has financed the construction of a university campus in the diamond-producing region of Lunda Norte. The facility, which includes faculties for law and economics, was opened last week by Angola’s president João Lourenço. The reported investment totalled over $69 million. Campus Capacity and Facilities The campus has 87 classrooms and can accommodate up to 8,718 students across three daily shifts. Facilities include two computer rooms, a library, a cafeteria and two sports courts. The site also includes access features for students with limited mobility. Statements from Government and Endiama Speaking at the opening ceremony, Diamantino…

A new research report from jewellery and watch insurer BriteCo has revealed that lab-grown diamonds accounted for more than 45% of engagement ring purchases in the US by 2024. The findings are based on BriteCo’s analysis of proprietary appraisal and insurance data gathered over the past five years. The report, titled The Lab-Grown vs Natural Diamond Revolution: New Data Reveals Consumer Insights, Trends and Predictions, outlines changes in consumer behaviour and purchasing patterns as lab-grown diamonds gain market share against natural diamonds. Pricing and Consumer Behaviour BriteCo’s data indicates that by 2025, the average retail price of a 1-carat lab-grown…

The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) has launched an online Tariff Tracker providing information on U.S. tariff changes that apply to jewellery, gemstones and precious metals. Funded in part by a grant from the JCK Industry Fund, the tracker will be updated when tariff provisions change and is designed to provide information for businesses assessing potential cost, supply chain and compliance implications. Supporting Trade Compliance JVC said the tool is intended to help members stay informed about U.S. trade policy changes and their effect on the import of jewellery-related goods. It will not offer legal advice, and the organisation recommends that…

India’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) has raised concerns over the United States’ decision to impose a 50% tariff on all Indian goods, warning that the measure could disrupt India’s gem and jewellery exports. The US accounts for over $10 billion of exports from India’s gem and jewellery sector, representing around 30% of total global trade. According to GJEPC, 85% of exports from the Santacruz Electronics Export Processing Zone (SEEPZ) Special Economic Zone, which employs around 50,000 people, are directed to the US. For cut and polished diamonds, half of India’s exports are US-bound. GJEPC Chairman Vipul Shah…