Author: Ruchi Singla

Gaetano Cavalieri, President of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), addressed the opening session of the 2024 Global Gems and Jewellery Development Conference in Hainan, China, on 19 December, putting forward an argument that conflicts within the industry, particularly concerning laboratory-grown diamonds, have weakened consumer confidence in jewellery. “The items we sell do not necessarily have inherent value – such is the nature of luxury products,” he said. “They have perceived value, created by the brands, and through cultural and historic associations. If the consumer loses confidence in our products, then their value is discounted.” Laboratory-Grown Diamonds and Market Challenges Dr.…

Lucara Diamond Corp. has announced the names of two extraordinary rough diamonds recently unearthed from its Karowe Mine in Botswana. The larger of the two, a 2,488-carat diamond recovered in August 2024, has been named Motswedi, meaning “water spring” in Setswana. Remarkably, this diamond is the second-largest ever discovered, marking a significant milestone for the mine and the diamond industry. The second diamond, weighing 1,094 carats and recovered in September 2024, has been named Seriti, which translates to “aura” or “presence” in Setswana, reflecting cultural ties to identity and legacy in Botswana. Both names were chosen through a national competition,…

Swarovski has announced the launch of Recreated Crystals, developed with a focus on sustainability and circular design principles. The crystals are made by remelting material from Swarovski’s own crystal production process, creating new colours while maintaining a quality comparable to the original. According to the company, this production method uses 40% fewer natural resources than standard crystal manufacturing and reduces the environmental footprint by at least 34%. Incorporation into Collections Recreated Crystals are available for Swarovski’s business-to-business partners and are also being introduced in consumer collections. For the autumn and winter 2024 season, the Ice Blue shade is featured in…

Tiffany & Co. has acquired an 18-karat gold pocket watch tied to the Titanic disaster for $2 million, adding to its collection of historically significant items. This acquisition, made at an auction hosted by Henry Aldridge & Son Ltd., sets a record as the highest price ever paid for a piece of Titanic memorabilia. The pocket watch, originally gifted to Captain Arthur H. Rostron of the RMS Carpathia, commemorates his heroic actions in rescuing more than 700 Titanic survivors on April 15, 1912. A Tribute to Titanic Heroism The timepiece was commissioned by three prominent Titanic survivors—Madeleine Talmage Astor, Marian…

The UK retail industry has shed 225,000 jobs over the past five years, according to the Office for National Statistics (ONS). Data for September 2024 shows 2.81 million retail jobs, indicating ongoing challenges and structural changes in the sector. Sector Transformation and Employment Shifts The British Retail Consortium (BRC) pointed to structural shifts within the retail industry as a significant factor in the job reductions. Helen Dickinson, CEO of the BRC, stated: “Despite a further fall in the number of retail jobs, the industry remains the largest private sector employer providing approximately 2.9 million jobs in the UK, with another…

Only Natural Diamonds has announced the publication of The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance, a new book by jewellery historian and founder of The Adventurine, Marion Fasel. Published as a limited-edition hardcover, the book examines the history of diamond engagement rings and their evolution from the 15th century to modern times. Historical Insight and Design Evolution Fasel’s research explores the origins of diamond engagement rings, addressing misconceptions such as their association with the 1947 De Beers campaign or the 1477 engagement of Mary of Burgundy. She highlights evidence from Renaissance artwork and historic manuscripts that trace the…

The Goldsmiths’ Centre has introduced updates to its Jewellery Foundation Programme for 2025/26, supported by jeweller Stephen Webster MBE, jewellery blogger A Thousand Facets, and the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council (GC&DC). Since 2012, the programme has trained over 100 participants in foundational jewellery and silversmithing skills. The recent updates reflect changes in educational requirements and aim to support the development of future industry professionals. Free Training for Aspiring Jewellers The Jewellery Foundation Programme is a ten-month, free training course for individuals aged 18 and over, focusing on traditional and contemporary jewellery-making techniques. Participants gain practical experience and receive feedback…

The European Commission has approved an €81 million State aid measure from Spain to support the establishment of a factory for the production of semiconductor-grade synthetic diamonds in Trujillo, Extremadura. Led by Diamond Foundry Europe, this project aims to align with EU objectives in regional development, job creation, and the transition to a more sustainable economy. Project Overview The new facility will produce synthetic diamond wafers using plasma reactor technology. These wafers are intended for use in the semiconductor industry as an alternative to silicon, particularly in key sectors such as 5G communications and electric vehicles. The factory’s production capacity…

The London Diamond Bourse (LDB) and De Beers Group recently hosted a collaborative event in London to discuss the diamond sector’s contribution to the global supply chain, ethical sourcing, and consumer engagement. Bringing together over 150 participants, including industry professionals, diplomats, and representatives from major UK jewellery retailers, the event aimed to address key developments and challenges shaping the diamond trade. Keynote Speakers and Global Collaboration Speakers included members of De Beers’ Executive team, representatives from the embassies of Angola, Botswana, Sierra Leone, and South Africa, as well as the Managing Director of the Boston Consulting Group. LDB President David…

China has announced the discovery of a significant gold deposit in Pingjiang County, Hunan Province. Valued at approximately $83 billion at current prices, the deposit is estimated to contain over 1,000 tonnes of gold, marking a notable development for the global and domestic gold mining sectors. Details of the Discovery The deposit was identified by experts from the Geological Bureau of Hunan Province, who located more than 40 new gold veins less than 2,000 metres underground. These veins alone are projected to yield 300 tonnes of gold. Additionally, reserves extending down to 3,000 metres increase the estimated total yield to…

The United States and the United Kingdom have imposed sanctions on 28 individuals and entities linked to a global gold-smuggling and money-laundering network allegedly led by Kamlesh Pattni. The operation, centred in Zimbabwe, is accused of exploiting the country’s gold and diamond resources through bribery, fraudulent reporting, and a network of companies used to conceal these activities. Pattni, a Kenyan businessman and UK citizen, became known in the 1990s for his alleged involvement in Kenya’s Goldenberg scandal. Following accusations of fraudulent gold trading, Pattni moved to Zimbabwe, where he is said to have continued developing a network facilitating the smuggling…

Spring Fair has announced a collaboration with the Association for Cultural Enterprises (ACE) to better address the needs of cultural, heritage, and destination buyers. This partnership will introduce a dedicated Cultural Enterprise Day on Tuesday, 4 February 2025, during the Spring Fair event held at the Birmingham NEC from 2–5 February. Catering to Cultural Enterprises The partnership introduces a tailored programme for cultural enterprise buyers, incorporating contributions from 45 new cultural enterprise organisations. The Cultural Enterprise Day will feature curated guided tours, supplier lists provided by ACE, complimentary goody bags, and consultancy sessions in the Buyer’s Lounge. Attendees will also…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced an enhancement to its emerald reports, offering optional filler identification from 15 December 2024 in  response to industry requests for more detailed information about fillers used in treated emeralds.  Responding to Market Needs The optional service, initially offered at no additional cost, allows clients to receive specific information about filler types present in their emeralds. The service marks a return to a more detailed reporting method previously offered by GIA over 20 years ago but discontinued to focus on the degree of filling. “GIA is making this change in response to market…

T.Gold, the international exhibition for jewellery machinery and technology, will take place from 17 to 21 January 2025 in Vicenza, Italy, alongside the January edition of Vicenzaoro. Organised by the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), the event will focus on advancements in jewellery manufacturing technology, with an emphasis on innovation and sustainability. Global Participation and Focus Areas T.Gold 2025 will host 170 exhibitors from 16 countries, with 40% of participants representing international companies, highlighting Italy’s prominence in the sector while showcasing global contributions from countries including Germany, Turkey, Switzerland, the US, and the UK. The exhibition will showcase innovations across six…

Element Six, part of De Beers Group, has announced its investment in Lightsynq, a US-based startup focused on quantum computing.  Lightsynq, founded by experts from Harvard University and AWS, is working on innovative solutions to improve how quantum computers communicate and scale. Synthetic diamonds, engineered by Element Six, play a crucial role in enabling this technology, which has applications in fields like cybersecurity and chemistry. Supporting Quantum Advancements with Synthetic DiamondsQuantum computing, while still in its early stages, has the potential to revolutionise industries with its ability to process complex calculations far faster than traditional computers. One major challenge in…

Applications are now open for the Goldsmiths’ Centre’s ‘Getting Started Online 2025’, a free, week-long introduction to business course for early-career jewellery and silversmithing professionals. Scheduled to run from 17th to 21st March 2025, the programme offers practical guidance on launching and managing a creative business. Programme Highlights The course, hosted entirely online, provides participants with live webinars led by industry experts. It covers key topics such as branding, product development, and sales channel strategies, addressing challenges often faced by emerging designers and makers. Participants can also benefit from networking opportunities and the chance to apply for the Spotlighting Getting…

The Watches of Switzerland Group PLC (WoS) has published its financial results for the first half (H1) of FY25, reporting a 4% revenue increase in constant currency to £785 million. This growth reflects improved performance in the second quarter (Q2) and contributions from the acquisition of Roberto Coin. However, profitability has been affected by rising costs and changes in product mix. Key Financial Highlights Revenue Performance Profitability Metrics Strategic Investments and Debt Strategic and Operational Developments Geographic and Product Diversification WoS reported increased revenue contributions from the US, now comprising 45% of total sales. The integration of Roberto Coin has…

De Beers Group has announced the winners of its 2024 Shining Light Awards, a biennial jewellery design competition aimed at fostering talent from Botswana, Canada, Namibia, and South Africa. The awards are part of the company’s initiative to develop skills in jewellery design and manufacturing among young professionals. Competition Overview Launched in 1995, the Shining Light Awards provide a platform for designers aged 18 to 35 who are enrolled in or have completed jewellery design programmes. Participants are required to design a complete collection, including a ring, necklace, earrings, bangles, and bracelets. This year’s competition attracted 104 entries under the…

Alan Cohen has been announced as the recipient of the 2024 National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) Chair’s Award. The accolade was presented during the Benevolent Society’s Centenary Christmas Charity Ball, sponsored by Presman Mastermelt, in recognition of his voluntary contributions to the jewellery industry. Pivotal Work on Sanctions and Supply Chain Stability Cohen’s recent efforts to address the implementation of Russian diamond sanctions played a significant role in his selection for the award. His work with G7 nations, government bodies, and the World Diamond Council helped minimise the impact of these sanctions on the UK’s diamond supply chain, supporting industry…

Scientists and engineers from the UK Atomic Energy Authority (UKAEA) and the University of Bristol have developed the world’s first carbon-14 diamond battery. This innovative technology utilises radioactive carbon-14, a by-product of nuclear reactors, to create an energy source capable of powering devices for thousands of years. How the Carbon-14 Diamond Battery Works The carbon-14 diamond battery generates power through the radioactive decay of carbon-14, which has a half-life of 5,700 years. This process is comparable to how solar panels convert light into electricity; however, instead of photons, the battery captures fast-moving electrons within the diamond structure. The carbon-14 used…

The International Gemological Institute (IGI) has announced an initial public offering (IPO) valued at $499 million (Rs 4,225 crore). The IPO will open for subscription from 13 to 17 December, with shares scheduled to list on the Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE) and National Stock Exchange (NSE) on 20 December. Background on IGI and the IPO The IPO comes following Blackstone Group’s acquisition of IGI for $570 million in May 2023 from Fosun International and former IGI CEO Roland Lorie. The offering values IGI at approximately $3.5 billion. Overview of IGI’s Operations Founded in Antwerp in 1975 by Marcel Lorie, IGI…

The Pantone Colour Institute has announced its Colour of the Year for 2025: Pantone 17-1230, also known as “Mocha Mousse.”  The warm, rich brown hue has been described as embodying connections to the natural world, everyday comforts, and a refined sense of luxury. This selection marks the 26th year of Pantone’s annual Colour of the Year programme, which influences trends across fashion, interiors, and jewellery. Why ‘Mocha Mousse’? According to Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Colour Institute, Mocha Mousse resonates on multiple sensory levels, evoking the comfort and richness of chocolate, coffee, and cacao. This earthy tone was…

Boodles has reported a pre-tax profit of £18.1m for the latest financial year, despite a 1.3% dip in sales to £104.9m.  The company operates high-profile stores across the UK and Ireland, including locations in London, Manchester, Liverpool, Chester, and Dublin. Financial Performance and Dividends In the accounts filed for Boodle & Dunthorne Ltd, the company noted a slight decline in pre-tax profit from £19.5m in 2023. During the same period, £6.4m in dividends were distributed to shareholders. Despite the minor sales contraction, trading for the current financial year is described as “encouragingly strong,” with significant growth in both revenue and…

India, the world’s largest hub for diamond polishing, is intensifying its call for a domestic diamond export certification centre following the recent establishment of a certification facility in Botswana. The global diamond trade has been navigating significant regulatory changes since the G7’s January 2024 ban on Russian-origin diamonds, extending this restriction to diamonds processed in intermediary countries such as India. By March 2024, Antwerp, emerged as the sole global export certification centre, further complicating the supply chain for India’s diamond exporters. While Botswana’s certification facility has provided relief to African diamond manufacturers and traders by reducing costs and streamlining compliance,…

The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) has unveiled the CMJ Academy, a complimentary online training resource designed to support retail sales teams by providing foundational knowledge in jewellery and watch-related topics. The CMJ Academy features eight interactive modules, each addressing a fundamental area of jewellery retailing. Topics covered include hallmarking, precious metals, jewellery design, diamonds, gemstones, rings, watches, and sales techniques. Each module concludes with an online assessment, and participants who successfully complete all modules receive a CMJ Academy certificate. The programme is designed to cater to those new to the industry, ensuring no prior experience is required. Jo Bourne,…

De Beers has released the dates for its 2025 rough diamond sales, confirming 10 sights across the year. At its final sight of 2024, De Beers reduced rough diamond prices by 10% to 15% as part of efforts to address market imbalances. The company has also adjusted its supply flexibility, reflecting a strategy shift to better align with current demand. Additionally, in 2025, the December sight will be shortened to four days, compared to the traditional five. Full Schedule of De Beers’ 2025 Sights The schedule for De Beers’ 2025 sights is as follows:

The National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) has announced the appointment of Mehdi Saadian as its new Vice Chair. Saadian, who serves as Director of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) London campus, is an active member of the Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV) and the Academy of Experts. Saadian has been a member of the NAJ’s National Committee since 2022, where he has contributed to enhancing the organisation’s governance model. He will assume the position of Chair in 2026, succeeding the current Chair, Adam Jacobs. Expressing gratitude for his appointment, Saadian stated: “I’m truly honoured to take on the role…

De Beers has reduced prices for its rough diamonds by 10% to 15% at its final sight of 2024, according to industry sources. The adjustment, applicable to most diamond categories, seeks to address weak demand and better reflect open market pricing. Addressing Price Disparities The price cuts aim to narrow the gap between De Beers’ rough diamond prices and goods sold at tenders and auctions, which were reportedly 20% to 25% cheaper in some categories. Sightholders had expressed concerns about De Beers maintaining price levels despite declining demand. A De Beers spokesperson declined to comment on the price changes but…

Footfall across UK retail locations fell by 4.5% year-on-year in November 2024, according to data from the British Retail Consortium (BRC) and Sensormatic. The decrease contrasts with a smaller decline of 1.1% recorded in October. Shopping centres saw the steepest drop at 6.1%, compared to 3.7% for high streets and 1.1% for retail parks. All four nations of the UK experienced a reduction in footfall, with Wales seeing the largest decline at 7.1%, followed by Scotland at 6.8%, England at 4.2%, and Northern Ireland at 2.8%. Challenges Impacting Retailers Commenting on the data, Helen Dickinson, Chief Executive of the British…

Angola has replaced Russian diamond miner Alrosa with Maaden International, an Omani investment fund, in its diamond-mining operations. Alrosa, the Russian state-controlled diamond miner, previously held a 41% stake in the Catoca diamond mine, one of the largest globally. The company has faced sanctions from the United States, United Kingdom, and European Union since 2022, linked to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. “Sanctions on the Russian diamond industry created difficulties for the Angolan diamond industry and for the credibility of our diamonds in the international market,” said Angola’s Mining Minister, Diamantino Azevedo. He explained that President João Lourenço directed the Ministry…