Author: Ruchi Singla

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced that its cultured pearl reports will now include traceability information, following the integration of radio frequency identification (RFID) technology. This development enables greater transparency in the pearl supply chain, allowing for traceability from origin to market.Integration of RFID TechnologyThe RFID technology, developed by Hong Kong-based Fukui Shell Nucleus Factory, embeds wireless RFID tags within the bead nuclei of cultured pearls. This allows for easier tracking of pearls through the supply chain. Each pearl’s RFID tag provides a unique reference number, which will now be included in GIA’s Cultured Pearl Classification Reports.Fukui Shell Nucleus…

The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) has released the Autumn 2024 edition of The Journal of Gemmology (Vol. 39, No. 3), which was made available digitally on 12 September.Key Research HighlightsAmong the featured articles in this edition is an in-depth review of Bohemian garnet (chromium-bearing pyrope) from the Czech Republic. With a history dating back to the fifth century CE, Bohemian garnet has long held a place of significance in the jewellery world. The article delves into the gem’s historical context, as well as its gemmological characteristics.Also included is a study examining cobalt-blue spinel from Baffin Island, Canada. This…

The Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC) has published a special edition of its Future of Trade report, titled Provenance, Traceability and Technology. This report focuses on enhancing the traceability of diamonds and highlights the importance of advanced technological solutions in maintaining the integrity and sustainability of the global diamond supply chain.The report highlights technologies like blockchain, artificial intelligence (AI), synthetic DNA, laser microjets, QR codes, and physical tracers as tools being explored to address challenges related to changing consumer preferences, the growth of lab-grown diamonds, and new regulatory requirements, including the G7’s recent import restrictions.Impact of G7 Sanctions on Russian…

The Autumn Vicenzaoro September show has wrapped up, marking 70 years of gold fairs in Vicenza. Minister for Enterprise and Made in Italy, Adolfo Urso, noted in a statement that since the inaugural fair in 1954, Vicenza has showcased the creativity, innovation, and craftsmanship of the jewellery industry, reinforcing Italy’s position on the world stage.Running from 6th to 10th September, the show, organised by the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), hosted 1,200 exhibiting brands, 40% of which were from 35 countries outside Italy. With support from the Italian Trade Agency and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 450 buyers from 60 countries, including…

A 1,000-year-old Pictish ring has been discovered at Burghead Fort in Moray, Scotland, during an archaeological dig led by the University of Aberdeen. The ring, which features a red centre believed to be garnet or red glass, was uncovered by John Ralph, a retired engineer, on the final day of the excavation. This find offers valuable insight into the Picts, a people whose history is largely understood through archaeological discoveries.Discovery of the RingJohn Ralph, an amateur volunteer with previous archaeological experience, made the discovery while excavating at Burghead Fort, a site thought to have been a key location for the Picts.…

If Jewels Could Talk by Carol Woolton examines the cultural and historical significance of jewellery across civilisationsJewellery historian Carol Woolton, former editor at British Vogue, has published If Jewels Could Talk: Seven Secret Histories, which explores the cultural and symbolic meanings of seven types of jewellery—hoops, rings, beads, charms, brooches, cuffs, and head ornaments—across various civilisations.Woolton explores the global origins, evolution, and cultural importance of jewellery in human history.A Global Perspective on JewelleryThe book examines jewellery traditions from various cultures, such as Viking silver torques, Imperial Chinese jade, and sixteenth-century Posy rings, showcasing their roles as both personal adornments and…

Luxury Swiss jeweller Chopard has unveiled its latest campaign for the iconic ‘Ice Cube’ collection, featuring model Bella Hadid. The campaign, shot by British photographer Charlotte Wales, aims to emphasise the clean, geometric lines of the jewellery in a sleek, urban setting.Chopard’s Iconic ‘Ice Cube’ CollectionFirst launched in 1999, the ‘Ice Cube’ collection is recognised for its geometric design and minimalist elegance. Each piece in the collection is characterised by sharp cubic forms that reflect light in a unique way, creating a subtle yet sophisticated look. The “Sculpted by Light” theme runs throughout the campaign, with the jewellery’s cubic structure and sharp…

Anglo American, the parent company of De Beers, is apparently weighing a variety of strategic options for the diamond giant, including a possible initial public offering (IPO). This comes as De Beers faces prolonged weak demand for natural diamonds, with Anglo American looking to focus on more profitable sectors, such as copper. A spokesperson for De Beers has confirmed that both a sale and a potential stock market flotation remain “very much on the table” according to the UK’s Mail on Sunday.Decline in Diamond DemandThe diamond market has been experiencing notable turbulence in recent years, driven by several factors including economic…

The first half of 2024 has seen a notable rise in Russian rough diamond exports to India, despite global market challenges and ongoing sanctions. According to data from the Indian Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Russian diamond exports to India increased by over 22%, reaching 4.1 million carats during the period. However, the rise in volume has been accompanied by a significant decline in value, reflecting the continued drop in diamond prices. Impact of Sanctions on Russian Diamond ExportsThe sharp increase in exports comes after the imposition of strict sanctions by the G7 and EU nations. Since January 2024, these sanctions have…

MartinsGems, the new brand from gemstone cutter Martin Prinsloo, recently held a successful launch event for its latest fine jewellery collection on 30 August at the Chesterfield Hotel in Mayfair. The event attracted a diverse audience from various sectors of the jewellery industry, including students, tutors, designers, makers, valuers, and retailers. Attendees shared positive feedback on MartinsGems’ approach to gemstone cutting and design. Kate Baxter, founder of GoldDust, commented on Prinsloo’s skills, stating: “Martin’s self-taught cutting skills are exactly what the industry needs…unique, beautiful gemstones set in one-of-a-kind pieces. I can’t wait to see more.”Mehdi Saadian, a member of the Institute of…

On 1 October 2024, the INHORGENTA TRENDFACTORY will return to London with an invitation-only breakfast event at Goldsmiths’ Hall. Organised by INHORGENTA, this event will focus on the future of retail and developments in the jewellery industry. The London gathering follows a previous edition held in Paris and aims to provide attendees with key insights relevant to the trade.Event Highlights and Key Discussions The TRENDFACTORY event, hosted by INHORGENTA’s Event Director, Stefanie Maendlein, will feature a series of presentations and discussions. These include an overview of the German jewellery and watch retail market, offering a useful comparison for UK-based jewellers. The…

The UK government has imposed a travel ban on Lebanese art dealer and diamond trader, Nazem Ahmad, under its Domestic Counter Terrorism Sanctions Regime. Ahmad, who has been linked to the Hezbollah militant group, is accused of using smuggled diamonds and valuable artworks to finance terrorism activities. This marks the first use of the UK’s new sanctions regime, which aims to restrict the movements of non-UK nationals involved in terrorism.Sanctions from the US and UKNazem Ahmad was first sanctioned by the US in August 2022, with officials alleging that he had engaged in diamond smuggling and art dealing, violating global terrorism…

Angola and Russia are in discussions to allow Russian diamond company Alrosa to maintain its 41% stake in the Catoca mine, despite ongoing G7 sanctions targeting Russian entities.This development follows earlier reports that suggested Alrosa might sell its stake in the mine, which produces over 75% of Angola’s diamonds. Both governments are reportedly working to “remove obstacles” caused by the sanctions, potentially shifting the direction of previous negotiations.Background on Catoca Mine and SanctionsThe Catoca mine, one of the world’s largest diamond mines, plays a significant role in the diamond production of both Angola and Alrosa. However, G7 sanctions against Russia…

Latest reports from Rappaport shows that the diamond market experienced subdued trading in August due to seasonal trends and uncertainties surrounding consumer demand. Prices of polished diamonds continued to decline, following a similar trend seen in previous months.Price Declines and Competition from SyntheticsIn the United States, retail sales presented a mixed picture, with competition from synthetic diamonds and economic challenges affecting demand. Retailers and dealers were selective in their purchasing decisions, while demand in China remained weak. According to the RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI™), prices for 1-carat round, D to H, IF to VS2 diamonds fell by 1.1% in August. Other sizes also…

De Beers Group has confirmed its readiness to comply with the latest phase of G7 diamond import restrictions, which came into effect on 1 September. The updated regulations extend the restrictions to include diamonds of 0.5 carats and above, reducing the previous threshold from 1 carat.Provenance AssuranceTo meet the new requirements, De Beers is using its Best Practice Principles and Pipeline Integrity standards, which have provided provenance assurances for its diamonds for several years. With the expanded G7 restrictions, De Beers’ rough diamond customers can continue to provide evidence of diamond origin for stones now falling under the 0.5-carat threshold.Support for…

Cooksongold has confirmed its participation in The Jewellery Show 2024, scheduled for 1-2 September at Olympia, London. Showcasing Products and ServicesAt the event, Cooksongold will present a range of its products and services, including Precious Metal Casting, Laser Cutting, and Scrap services. Cooksongold’s stand, located at G40, will include demonstrations, giving visitors the chance to experience the latest tools and techniques. These demonstrations are designed to provide insights into current jewellery-making processes, potentially useful for jewellers looking to adopt new methods or improve existing practices.In addition, Cooksongold’s team will be available to offer advice and guidance. This could be relevant for jewellers…

A significant restoration project has brought a rare set of Bronze Age jewellery back to life after more than 4,000 years. Discovered in 1870 at the former Balgay Estate near Dundee, the pieces—a matching necklace and bracelet set—are now on display at The McManus: Dundee’s Art Gallery & Museum. This marks the first time these ancient artefacts have been seen in their original form since their burial.Restoration and DiscoveryThe jewellery, which consists of 42 jet beads and nine jet plates, was initially believed to be a single piece. However, recent research by Dr Allison Sheridan at National Museums Scotland revealed…

De Beers has announced a significant long-term strategic collaboration with Tanishq, India’s largest jewellery retail brand under the Tata Group.The partnership aims to connect more Indian consumers with natural diamonds, capitalising on India’s recent rise as the second-largest market for natural diamond jewellery.Market Context and OpportunityIndia’s growing economy, a burgeoning middle class, and an increasing number of discerning consumers have contributed to a significant rise in demand for natural diamond jewellery. Currently, Indian consumers account for 11 per cent of global demand, positioning the country as a critical market for the diamond industry. Despite this growth, diamond acquisition rates in…

The Abernethy Pearl, one of Scotland’s largest and most renowned freshwater pearls, has set a new auction record, fetching £93,951 at Lyon & Turnbull Cairncross Collection sale in Edinburgh on 21 August. The pearl, which surpassed its pre-sale estimate of £60,000, was bought by a Scottish bidder and will remain in the country, according to the auction house.The Legacy of the Abernethy PearlThe Abernethy Pearl was discovered in 1967 by William “Bill” Abernethy, a Scottish pearl fisher who passed away in 2021 at the age of 96. Weighing 43.6 grains, it is one of the largest Scottish freshwater pearls in recent…

Ernest Jones has introduced its new Origin by Ernest Jones collection, which uses blockchain technology to provide customers with detailed information on the journey of their diamonds, enhancing transparency in the diamond industry.Fully Traceable DiamondsJewellery featured in the collection allows customers can track the history of their diamonds, from their point of origin to the final product. Using blockchain technology, the collection provides a digital passport for each diamond, documenting every stage of its journey, including each transfer and border crossing.Each rough diamond in the collection is assigned a unique identification number that captures its specific characteristics. The tracking includes…

The International Gemological Institute (IGI), owned by private equity firm Blackstone, has filed for an initial public offering (IPO) valued at approximately INR 40 billion (USD 477 million). IGI aims to capitalise on the rising demand for lab-grown diamonds, particularly in India. The IPO will consist of newly issued shares worth INR 12.5 billion, while Blackstone will sell shares worth INR 27.5 billion.Strategic Market Position and Growth OpportunitiesFounded in Belgium, IGI now generates a large portion of its revenue and profits from India, where it has established itself as a key player in the diamond certification industry. Data from IGI and…

The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) has submitted its biennial report to the United Nations Global Compact, detailing its programmes and activities from September 2022 to September 2024. This submission is part of CIBJO’s ongoing commitment to the UN’s corporate sustainability initiative, which focuses on promoting responsible business practices globally.Key Programmes and InitiativesCIBJO’s recent efforts included educational events, development of business guidelines, and promoting collective action within the jewellery sector. Key initiatives were:Focus on Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) StandardsCIBJO’s Sustainable Commission released a report in August 2023 clarifying differences between CSR and ESG frameworks. The report noted the increasing relevance of…

Banff-based silversmithing and jewellery school, Vanilla Ink The Smiddy, has announced the completion of a bespoke quaich, commissioned as a commemorative gift to the Argentine Ambassador.The piece was created as part of the bicentennial celebrations of General José de San Martín’s visit to Banff in 1824. The commission came from the Friends of Duff House, an organisation dedicated to preserving the historic site.Historical Significance of General San MartínGeneral San Martín is revered as a national hero in Argentina, celebrated for his role in the liberation of Argentina, Chile, and Peru. His visit to Banff in 1824, following military campaigns in…

Cooksongold has launched a new Laser Cutting service aimed at providing jewellers with improved precision and design customisation options. Officially available from 27 August 2024, the service allows users to create detailed and personalised pieces from a selection of eight precious metals, including gold, silver, and platinum.Precision and CustomisationThe laser cutting technology employed by Cooksongold aims to provides jeweller with a higher level of accuracy and detail that can be challenging with traditional methods, supporting a variety of designs including personalised names, words, and shapes and allowing jewellers to produce detailed pieces such as name tags or design blanks.Four-Step Design ProcessJewellers…

Lucara Diamond Corp. has announced the recovery of an exceptional 2,492 carat rough diamond from its Karowe Diamond Mine in Botswana. The stone is believed to be the second-largest diamond ever found and the biggest discovered in more than a century.The discovery was made using Lucara’s Mega Diamond Recovery (MDR) X-ray Transmission (XRT) technology, which was introduced in 2017 to detect and preserve large, high-value diamonds.The newly discovered diamond, which remains unnamed, is the largest found since the famous 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond in 1905. Officials have not yet determined the value of the 2,492-carat stone, as its price will depend…

Danish jewellery giant Pandora is predicting a major transformation in the diamond market over the next decade. CEO Alexander Lacik has forecasted that lab-grown diamonds will surpass mined diamonds in popularity, marking a significant shift in consumer preferences. This prediction follows Pandora’s 2021 shift to lab-grown diamonds, which the company cited as a response to changing consumer preferences.Technological Advancements and Consumer DemandIn a recent interview with Bloomberg TV, Lacik explained how rapid technological advancements are making lab-grown diamonds more accessible and affordable. He noted, “Ten years on, my prediction is the vast majority of diamonds being sold are going to be lab-grown.…

Toyota has launched the C-HR Diamond Collection, a collaboration with Australian jewellery designer Millie Savage. The campaign, developed by marketing agency HERO, involves the creation of 13 lab-grown diamonds from components of Toyota’s new C-HR vehicle. The Concept: Transforming Car Parts into DiamondsThe C-HR Diamond Collection draws inspiration from the angular lines of a diamond, aiming to reflect the design of the Toyota C-HR. Car parts from the C-HR were subjected to a high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) process to create lab-grown diamonds.Shane Geffen, Executive Creative Director at HERO, noted that the process of turning vehicle components into diamonds was challenging, “but a testament…

UK diamond explorer Botswana Diamonds (BOD), has launched an artificial intelligence (AI) initiative to expedite its exploration efforts in Botswana. The company is using AI technology to analyse its mineral database, which is the second-largest diamond exploration database in the country. The first results are expected in four to six weeks.Collaboration with AI and Geoscience ExpertsBOD’s AI initiative involves the use of Xplore mineral prospectivity technology, developed in collaboration with International Geoscience Services Limited and Planetary AI Ltd. The AI system processes large datasets in a manner akin to a geologist but at a much faster rate and with enhanced accuracy.…

Stirling-based jeweller, Lily Blanche, has been shortlisted for the Growth Business of the Year Award at the upcoming Women’s Enterprise Scotland (WES) Awards 2024. Managing Director Gillian Crawford commented on the nomination, stating: “We are thrilled to be nominated as Growth Business of the Year in the WES Awards – it’s a tremendous honour for our team.” Crawford noted that the company has achieved a 40% year-on-year growth, attributing this to their scaling efforts. “The award is testament to the incredible work they have done,” she added, referencing the contributions of the entire team and the support from the Scottish business community.The…

Botswana’s success at the Paris 2024 Olympics was recognised by Debswana, which hosted a ceremony to honour the athletes and coaches who represented the country. The event highlighted sprinter Letsile Tebogo, Botswana’s first-ever Olympic gold medallist, and was organised in partnership with De Beers Global Sightholder Sales (DBGSS) and Diamond Trading Company Botswana (DTCB).Diamond Rewards for Tebogo and Team BotswanaTebogo, who won gold in the men’s 200 metres with a time of 19.46 seconds, was presented with a polished diamond and a cash reward of P60,000 ($4,400) by Debswana. His fellow athletes and their technical team members were also recognised…